Tien Shan Mountains, Kazakhstan— Photo: K. David Bishop

On pristine marshlands are unbelievable numbers of dapper White-winged Terns, Black-winged Pratincoles, and Citrine Wagtails, and breeding colonies of Great Black-headed, Slender-billed, and Steppe gulls. Nesting Whooper Swans mix with Ruddy Shelducks, Pygmy Cormorants, Dalmatian Pelicans, and White-headed Ducks. Wonderful sunrises at semi-desert oases can produce Pallas' Sandgrouse; displaying McQueen's Bustards; singing Pied, Desert, and Isabelline wheatears; and brilliant Red-headed Buntings. Unique, scrubby Saxaul forest in the stony steppe produces further specialties: Saxaul Sparrow; Pale-backed Pigeon; White-winged Woodpecker; Rufous-tailed Shrikes on every bush, and maybe Pallid Scops-Owl; Turkestan Tit; Asian Desert, Sykes', and Booted warblers; and gorgeous pink and gray Desert and Mongolian finches. Deep ravines of red, umber, and yellow are home to Oriental Turtle-Doves; Gray-hooded, Pine, and Chestnut-breasted buntings; Himalayan Griffons; Cinereous Vultures; Steppe Eagles; and nest sites to myriads of nomadic, gaudy pink, and shiny black Rosy Starlings.

 In sharp contrast, the Tien Shan Mountains, edging onto China, rise above 20,000 feet and beckon us. Luxuriant mixed forest supports Songar Tit, singing Greenish and Hume's warblers, and occasional raucous Eurasian Nutcrackers on the treetops. Brown Dippers and Blue Whistling-Thrushes splash in untamed rivers, with White-winged Redstarts flashing brilliant color in adjacent scrub. The mythical Ibisbill breeds in open, braided river valleys. The snow-capped peaks are a dramatic backdrop to flower-rich alpine meadows and juniper scrub. Here, Black-throated and Brown accentors, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, Rufous-backed and Blue-capped redstarts, Fire-fronted Serins, Plain Mountain-Finches, Red-mantled Rosefinch, White-winged Grosbeak, and the incomparable White-tailed Rubythroat are all easily found as they proclaim their territories, and the remarkable lilac, purple, and blue White-browed Tit-Warbler lurks. Lammergeiers soar over upper mountain slopes where Himalayan Snowcock strut, making eerie, echoing, wailing calls.

An optional extension will visit Uzbekistan, a rich region of ancient cities and cultures based along the Great Silk Route to China, the crossroads between east and west. Genghis Khan, Alexander the Great, and Attila the Hun all passed through, fought, or lived here.

Mostly good hotels; a few nights of well-organized desert camping and simpler shared accommodation in one location; excellent local guides; some long distances by coach; walking mostly very easy; warm to hot, 2–3 days at altitudes between 8,000 and 10,000 feet.