December 2004 Birdletter
The December 2004 issue of VENT's printed newsletter, the Birdletter, contains articles about Scotland's Hebrides & Highlands in Spring, Jungle Rivers Cruise, David Bishop to lead Classic Northern India 2005!, The Dominican Republic & Jamaica, Two Fabulous Trips in the Caribbean, Brazil: Birding the Amazonian Wilderness in Style, Antarctica, Birding Across America by Train, Bulgaria: Southeast Europe's Finest Birding, Mexico: Barranca Del Cobre, Eastern Venezuela, A Look at VENT's Less Known Leaders, Kauai and Hawaii and Kauai Seabirds, and Attu Aboard the Spirit of Oceanus.
SCOTLAND'S HEBRIDES & HIGHLANDS IN SPRING
By Peter Roberts
Having arranged this new tour to Scotland for early spring 2004, I was full of trepidation. Would the weather be awful, or the season too late for winter birds or too early for breeding birds? Happily, the answer was a resounding "NO" and we had a blast. This is a fairly short, very easy and relaxed tour with great food and accommodations, and a high degree of flexibility. We can adapt our itinerary to local circumstances or your preferences (there's nothing wrong with a bit of "retail-therapy" or a visit to a whiskey distillery, Iron Age Fort, or famous castle, if it's what folks want to do on a rainy afternoon!). We saw a lot of classy birds during pleasant days in the field, always with that anticipation of returning to fine food and accommodations, and occasional informative lectures from local experts on the birds, ecology, and history of the areas we had just visited.
Splitting our time between my Hebridean island home of Islay and the marvelous Aigas Field Centre in the Highlands (a wonderful Victorian Hunting Lodge hosted by Sir John Lister-Kaye) gives us a good cross section of all that is best about Scotland. Highlights of our first trip included spectacular views of large flocks of wintering geese. There is nothing quite like the sight of thousands of dapper black, gray, and white Barnacle Geese against a windswept backdrop of wild Atlantic coast, back-lit by a bright afternoon sun illuminating a magnificent and intensely colored rainbow that the geese have just flown through. (The vagrant Red-breasted Goose seen so well here was a major bonus!). On the deep North Sea Firths of Beauly, Cromarty, and Dornoch, an equally inspiring sight were Pink-footed Geese gathering for their long northward migration. Other wintering birds were Whooper Swans, Iceland Gulls, Redwings, and Fieldfares.
The raptors and game birds begin nesting surprisingly early here. On the extensive heather moorlands, our unique race of Willow Ptarmiganâ??the Red Grouseâ??was active and calling its weird "go-back" cries as it gave point-blank display views. More localized and sought after were Eurasian Capercaillie and Black Grouse; both are busy lekking in spring, the males of Black Grouse gathering and posturing together for dominance in the early morning. Of an extensive list of possible raptors, the most wanted are Red Kite and White-tailed Eagle, both examples of highly successful reintroduction programs. We had some fine views of both in 2004.
On Islay, other special birds that we made sure to see were the unobtrusive and very locally distributed Twite, and Scotland's only breeding Red-billed Choughs. Splendid coastal scenery held all sorts of great birding for us, varying from a mass of wintering wildfowl and shorebirds to returning breeding species such as Manx Shearwater (the nearby island of Rhum holds probably the largest single colony of this species in the world). On the freshwater lochs the region's special breeding birds were already settling in to territories, and it was a pleasure to watch paired Arctic Loons and Horned Grebes in full summer plumage. Walks in the glorious, extensive remnants of the ancient Caledonian Pine Forest that once blanketed Scotland thousands of years ago were very productive. Tawny Owl and Goldcrest are common, while here is Britain's only population of Crested Tit (plus the chance to see the endemic Scottish Crossbill). The pretty fast-flowing streams hold White-throated Dipper.
Britain is blessed with many nature reserves with excellent blinds making the birding easy, focused, and comfortable. The Brits are keen garden birders, and the bird-feeders ensured many wonderful close studies of classic and colorful garden species such as Great Spotted Woodpecker, Eurasian Siskin, Chaffinch, and Great, Coal, and Blue tits. On a tour like this, the birds are excellent, we concentrate on seeing everything we can, and we have plenty of local knowledge to produce the goods. It was fun to go birding every day, but much of the fun was in the experience of birding in and pondering the special places and atmosphere that the Highlands and Islands have to offer: an informal visit to an Islay whiskey distillery with Black Guillemot, Razorbill, and Purple Sandpiper on the coast; an impromptu visit to the Culloden battlefield nearby to see a Ring Ouzel on territory; birding amongst so many famous and picturesque sites such as Loch Lomond, Glencoe, Loch Ness, Loch Maree, Urquhart Castle, and Strathspey; and watching eagles soaring over an Iron Age Fort or Red-billed Choughs cawing by ancient Finlaggan, home of Clan Macdonald. It all adds an extra indefinable quality to a fine birding experience.
* Scotland's Hebrides & Highlands
* April 3-13, 2005
* With Peter Roberts
* $3375 from Glasgow
* Limit 16
JUNGLE RIVERS CRUISE
By Victor Emanuel
I co-led this cruise with nine other VENT leaders. It was an outstanding success. Peter English emailed reports and photos from the trip that were posted on our web site. Those daily reports are still up at http://www.ventbird.com. Our report from Day 2 reads as follows:
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Clipper Adventurer |
"Two years ago when Steve Hilty and David Ascanio first talked about doing a cruise along the northeast coast of South America, we never in our wildest dreams could have imagined that on the first day of that cruise we would make ornithological history. We rediscovered the Orinoco Softtail, known from only a few specimens and not seen anywhere for 34 years. We also saw the Black-chested Tyrant, a flycatcher known from only a few specimens and localities. Both of these birds were lifers for Steve Hilty, who wrote Birds of Venezuela, and also for all the VENT leaders. Fortunately, almost everyone saw both of these incredibly rare birds. I've never seen Steve Hilty and David Ascanio as excited as they were today."
This was the most amazing beginning we've ever had on any VENT trip. To our knowledge, prior to that day the Orinoco Softtail, a small ovenbird, had never been seen by anyone now living. The person who collected the last specimens died a few years ago. We were able to show this incredibly rare, little known bird to over 50 birders!
Other highlights on the Jungle Rivers trip included Pompadour, Purple-breasted and Spangled cotingas; Gray-winged Trumpeters; Black Curassows; a very cooperative Fiery-tailed Awlbill; White-throated Pewee; great looks at a Rufous Crab-Hawk; and about 400 other species of birds.
In both Guyana and Suriname, the minister of tourism came out to meet with us and told us that attracting more birders to their country was their number one priority.
This trip was such a great success that we plan to offer it again in October 2006, and hope to fill the entire ship with birders.
DAVID BISHOP TO LEAD CLASSIC NORTHERN INDIA 2005!
If you've written an itinerary 18 months before the trip is due to depart, time passes, you become focused on other things, and you tend to forget just how exciting the whole thing is! Our Classic Northern India tour is definitely no exception. I have just re-read the itinerary and I'm raring to go. Imagine, not only will we see tigersâ??THE quintessential super-predator, but we have chances of seeing them at three national parks. We should see several other really neat mammals in addition to a host of exciting birds. With a bit of luck, we should see as many as 400 species on this trip, including several top-notch species: the endangered Great Indian Bustard; thousands of Demoiselle Cranes at very close-range; several big eagles including the handsome Pallas's Fish-Eagle; possibly Wallcreeper; and a whole array of western desert and western Himalayan species that just aren't possible on our more regular tours to Bhutan and the northeast.
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David Bishop |
I especially enjoy this trip because of the impressively broad variety of regions and habitats we explore, ranging from the deserts of India's far west to the forest-clad foothills of Corbett National Park (one of my special favorites) and up to Naini Tal in the bird-rich western Himalayas. And all this amidst some of the most fascinating antiquities and cultures you will encounter anywhere. If you like delicious food and a good beer, our Classic Northern India tour is THE trip for you.
Classic Northern India
* March 18-April 5, 2005
* with David Bishop
* $4995 from Delhi
* Limit 10
* Tigers & Taj Pre-trip
* March 10-19, 2005
* with David Bishop
* $2995 from Delhi
* Limit 10
THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC & JAMAICA, TWO FABULOUS TRIPS IN THE CARIBBEAN
By Barry Lyon
As we birders emerge from our winter hibernation, we bear resemblance to hungry grizzlies, ready to eat anything in sight. For many of us the winter was a cold one, with decidedly few birds about and the days devoid of bird song. Football season is over and the warm cheer of the holidays has subsided like the freshness of yesterday's news. So we wait. We know that warmer weather is on the way, that spring will return, that the flocks of birds will rise on the south wind, leaving winter residences behind and arriving on our bird-starved shores. Until that time is upon us, however, we are stuck in March, that odd time of year when winter has ended, but spring is not yet here. For many birders these days are patiently waited out in anticipation of bigger and better days ahead. So what can be done about this? How will we ever make it through to the halcyon days of spring? Here at Victor Emanuel Nature Tours we make every effort to solve these kinds of problems. We want to alleviate the late winter/early spring doldrums and get you feeling happy and excited again.
To find the solution we decided to look southeast, to the Caribbean. Here's why: it provides everything a birder could want. Imagine a destination offering superior birding opportunities where most everything is endemic, beautiful natural scenery, warm weather, and a close proximity to the United States. The Dominican Republic and Jamaica are specifically what we have in mind. They are two of the islands comprising the Greater Antilles and both feature wonderful tropical birding not far from home. This spring we will offer tours to both of these destinations. Each trip may be taking singly, or both trips may be taken together for one long tour.
The Dominican Republic is my personal favorite. It is the most geographically diverse country in the Caribbean. With high mountains, rugged coastline, and landlocked lakes, you will experience landscapes of great scenic beauty. The views of Lake Enriquillo from the Bahoruco Mountains are simply not to be missed, while Jaragua National Park sits as a pristine monument to some of the world's most beautiful thorn scrub forest. The Dominican Republic is home to nearly 30 endemic bird species, as well as an additional number of regional endemics. We can expect to see most of them, including such spectacular birds as Bay-breasted Cuckoo, Hispaniolan Lizard-Cuckoo, Hispaniolan Trogon, Golden Swallow, and a delightful array of hummingbirds. The Narrow-billed Tody and Broad-billed Tody are among the most wonderful of nature's creations, and we should see both of them well. An added bonus is an optional pre-trip to Los Haitises National Park in the northeast, which is home to undamaged habitat and the Ridgway's Hawk, one of the world's rarest birds.
Our primary guide will be Kate Wallace, a former Peace Corps volunteer who now calls the Dominican Republic home. She knows the country, the people and politics exceedingly well, and is fascinating to travel with. Victor Emanuel and I will be joining her once again because we enjoy sharing the Dominican Republic with our clients. An added bonus is a private walking tour of Santo Domingo with a world authority on the Spanish colonial era.
When one considers Jamaica, the first thoughts, quite naturally, are of sunbaked tourists on world class beaches, with palm trees blowing in the wind, the ringing sound of a steel drum, and carved-out pineapples containing some deliciously decadent beverage. To some degree this stereotype is true; however, there is a whole other side to this beautiful country that most people, including birders, are unaware of. Jamaica offers some of the best and easiest birding in the Caribbean, with a splendid variety of doves, cuckoos, parrots, thrushes, vireos, and flycatchers.
Much of our birding takes place amidst the lovely gardens, pastures, and forest trails of Marshall's Pen. The "Pen" is a 200-year-old great house and plantation dating from the English colonial era. Our host, and owner of the property, is Ann Sutton, one of the most important conservationists in the Caribbean and the wife of the late Robert Sutton, Jamaica's foremost ornithologist. Birding at Marshall's Pen is a truly delightful experience that is the highlight of any tour to Jamaica. Aside from the beautiful grounds, the surrounding forest is absolutely alive with birds, practically all of them endemics, featuring such exciting birds as Jamaican Woodpecker, Jamaican Becard, Jamaican Mango, Jamaican Crow, Jamaican Euphonia, Orangequit, Jamaican Spindalis (Stripe-headed Tanager), and Jamaican Oriole. My personal favorites include the hulking Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo and the wonderful Jamaican Owl. The stunning West Indian Whistling-Duck and diminutive Jamaican Tody are other must-see birds as well.
By venturing into the verdant hinterland, we will see numerous examples of the beautiful natural landscapes that have made Jamaica famous: rugged mountains, rolling forests, waterfalls, river valleys, and rocky coastlines. On the eastern side of the island we will have the privilege of viewing two of the world's most beautiful hummingbirds side by side: the Black-billed and Red-billed streamertails. Victor Emanuel and I will be leading this trip, and joining us will be Brandon Hay, a Jamaican biologist working to support conservation in that country.
I would like to add that although my own tour schedule has curtailed sharply in the past year, I love birding the Caribbean and sharing its avian riches with tour participants so much that I continue to return. I hope to have the opportunity to share it with you next spring.
* The Dominican Republic
* March 13-19, 2005
* With Victor Emanuel and Barry Lyon
* $1595 from Santo Domingo
* Limit 14
* Los Haitises/Ridgway's Hawk Pre-trip
* March 10-13, 2005
* With Victor Emanuel and Barry Lyon
* $595 from Santo Domingo
* Limit 14
* Jamaica
* March 19-26, 2005
* With Victor Emanuel, Barry Lyon and Brandon Hay
* $2295 from Montego Bay (tour ends in Kingston)
* Limit 14
BRAZIL: BIRDING THE AMAZONIAN WILDERNESS IN STYLE
By Andrew Whittaker
Picture a sprawling rainforest, dissected by a black-water river and punctuated by an impressive waterfall. A wilderness that is home to 12 species of primates, Brazilian tapirs, jaguars, and more than 400 species of birds. Now picture a lodge with air conditioned cabins, hot showers, ice machines, laundry service, excellent food, and an attentive staff. Rarely do such amenities and the term "wilderness" occur in the same sentence. Remarkably, each of the foregoing descriptions apply to our latest find_a new "jungle" lodge situated in the heart of the Brazilian Amazon, along the little-known Rio Roosevelt.
My scouting trips to this area produced some of the most spectacular Amazonian birding I have ever experienced, with 421 bird species recorded to date, including some recently discovered species whose formal descriptions have not yet been published! The surrounding large reserve, in which hunting is banned, offers a unique opportunity to see some of South America's most spectacular mammals, including Giant river otter and the recently described Prince Bernhard's titi monkey. Forest trails produced repeated encounters with groups of inquisitive Dark-winged Trumpeters; antswarms attended by the little-known Pale-faced Antbird and White-breasted Antbird; and a variety of seldom-seen regional specialties such as the Cryptic Forest-Falcon, Kawall's Parrot, Black-necked Red-Cotinga, Snow-capped Manakin, and the Rufous-necked Puffbird. Nearby stunted forest growing on white-sand soils harbored its own specialties, including Bronzy Jacamar, Flame-crested and Black Manakins, and the recently rediscovered Buff-cheeked Tody-Flycatcher.
Seemingly endless streams winding through shaded forest combined with high water levels typical of this season to offer the best opportunities I have ever seen anywhere in Amazonia for afternoon birding boat trips. Whether it be a stunning male Crimson Topaz hawking insects over the river surface, flocks of screeching parrots returning to their roosts, or a skulking Zigzag Heron along the shaded banks, each river trip yields its own unique rewards. Among the many special sights that I witnessed on the Rio Roosevelt, one stands out as indelibly imprinted in my mind. As I drifted downriver, an immense Harpy Eagle materialized out of nowhere, flying directly toward me and swooping to within 15 meters of my head before it was once again swallowed up by the forest. Such a close encounter gave me an appreciation for the terror that this magnificent predator must inspire among its potential prey.
For all the excitement that this wild region has to offer, part of its charm lies in more sublime experiences, such as kicking back in the comfort of an open-air restaurant and watching a kaleidoscopic procession of colorful birds (among them aracaris, dacnises, honeycreepers, and cardinals) visiting a nearby fruiting fig, or the simple beauty of drifting silently down a black-water river at sunset.
These experiences and many more are awaiting you on Brazil's Rio Roosevelt. Why not take a break from the winter routine and see for yourself that an Amazonian adventure really can be comfortable!
* Amazonian Wilderness
* March 11-21, 2005
* with Andrew Whittaker
* $4495 from Porto Velho, Brazil
* Limit 7
ANTARCTICA
By Victor Emanuel
The description "trip of a lifetime" is overused, but not in the case of Antarctica and South Georgia. I've birded and traveled on every continent and had some truly wonderful trips to such destinations as New Guinea, Africa, India, and many areas of South America, but my five trips to Antarctica stand out as some of the most amazing of my life. I can see why Antarctica captivated Roger Tory Peterson so much that he went there over 25 times.
What is it that makes Antarctica and South Georgia so special, and why are VENT trips to Antarctica the best?
Antarctica and South Georgia are special because of the incredible bird and wildlife spectacles_including thousands of penguins and seabirds; great looks at six species of albatross_among the world's most spectacular birds; the fantastic scenery_the icebergs themselves are so remarkably beautiful and truly awesome; and the history of exploration_especially the story of Shackleton's trip.
Why are VENT trips the best? For starters, we've had more experience for more years with more participants than any other birding company. We've been taking persons interested in birds and nature to Antarctica and South Georgia for over 20 years. In 1998 we chartered an entire ship and filled it with birders and naturalists.
All of our Antarctica trips include South Georgia because that island is the site where you will see the most birds and wildlife and the most spectacular scenery. It would be a great mistake to go only to the Antarctic peninsula and not visit South Georgia. We always include the Falklands as well, which are also rich in bird life.
Another advantage of going on a VENT trip to Antarctica is that we always take advantage of our time in Chile before flying to Ushuaia to bird the Andes. We've never failed to see Andean Condors, as well as a marvelous assortment of other birds. It is a great way to start our trip. We also offer optional pre- or post-trips for persons who want to spend more time in Chile.
A few spaces are still available on our January 25-February 13, 2005 departure. The leaders will include Greg Lasley, Andrew Whittaker, and Brian Patteson, all veteran birders and naturalists who have been to these areas before and who are eager to share with you their knowledge and enthusiasm for Antarctica and South Georgia. They will work with the staff of the Peregrine Voyager to make sure you have the most rewarding and enjoyable trip possible.
In December of 2005, we will charter the entire Clipper Adventurer for another incredible journey to the "White Continent." I will co-lead this trip with Greg Lasley and Brian Patteson. We are offering an early sign-up discount of $1000 until January 15, 2005. I'm looking forward to the special enthusiasm and camaraderie that result from a ship full of VENT birders!
* Antarctica, South Orkney & South Georgia Islands
* January 25-February 13, 2005
* with Greg Lasley, Brian Patteson & Andrew Whittaker
* Cabins begin at $8675 per person in double occupancy
* Limit 30
* Antarctica & South Georgia
* December 17, 2005-January 7, 2006
* with Victor Emanuel, Greg Lasley & Brian Patteson
* Cabins begin at $8370 per person in double occupancy
* Limit 100
BIRDING ACROSS AMERICA BY TRAIN
NEW DATES: May 17-28, 2005
This exciting new trip across the northern tier of the United States will be conducted at the peak of the breeding season. We will travel by train across country seeking a marvelous assortment of birds, and enjoying the magnificent scenery of the Adirondacks, the Great Plains, the Rocky Mountains, and the Olympic Peninsula. Join Victor Emanuel and Barry Lyon on what is sure to be a unique and memorable experience. Contact the VENT office for more information.
BULGARIA: SOUTHEAST EUROPE'S FINEST BIRDING
By Peter Roberts
I've made three journeys to Bulgaria, a Slavic nation tucked in between the Balkans and the beautiful Black Sea in the "bottom right hand corner" of Europe, and have been impressed by the country, the people, and the birds. My first two visits were in the depth of winter to see the flocks of Red-breasted Geese, but in 2003 I took a few people to test the idea of a spring tour. We returned happy and enriched with our experience, encouraging me to devise a spring birding tour for VENT.
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European Bee-eaters — Photo: by J. Sierra/VIREO |
Bulgaria is delightfulâ??a beautiful country of marshes, freshwater lakes, extensive and varied broadleaf and coniferous woodland, rugged mountains with alpine zones, limestone gorges and scrub, steppe grasslands, and the towering cliffs on the stunning Black Sea coast. Discovering the excellent birding in Bulgaria has made this firmly one of VENT's "Three Essentials": a trio of European birding tours (along with our Spain and Baltic offerings) that are, quite simply, the three best areas in Europe to see the most comprehensive array of European birds. On these three birding tours, you will see as much as 85% of the regularly occurring birds that you can expect to see on this varied continent. Our tours to these destinations have been carefully planned and designed specifically for American birders who want to see as much as possible, using comprehensive itineraries with no skimping, cutting corners, or ignoring the full gamut of species.
So, why Bulgaria? Birding here in the southeast corner of Europe should produce a bird list of over 200 species (I saw an easy 225 species while scouting). Our tour includes many classic southern European/Mediterranean birds. We visit one of the best sites in Europe for Wallcreeper, and areas important for raptorsâ??29 species are possible including Golden, Imperial, Steppe, Booted, Greater and Lesser Spotted, White-tailed and Short-toed eagles; Eurasian Honey-buzzard; Eurasian Griffon; and Cinereous and Egyptian vultures. Waterbirds are abundant: Little and Great bitterns; Squacco and Purple herons; Little Egret; Eurasian Spoonbill; White and Black storks; Slender-billed and Mediterranean gulls; Corn, Spotted, and Little crakes; Pied Avocet; Black-winged Stilt; Collared Pratincole; and an abundance of migrant shorebirds beckon us. Other star attractions with a strong Mediterranean, and eastern and southern European bias are Eurasian Penduline-Tit; Eurasian Golden Oriole; Rock, Cirl, and Ortolan buntings; Pallid and Alpine swifts; Red-backed and Lesser Gray shrikes; Savi's, River, Cetti's, Moustached, Barred, Subalpine, Icterine, and Sardinian warblers; Red-breasted Flycatcher; Alpine Accentor; Rufous-tailed and Blue rock-thrushes; European Roller; European Bee-eater; Eurasian Nutcracker; eight woodpecker species; Calandra and Greater Short-toed larks; Red-rumped Swallow; Eurasian Crag-Martin; Short-toed Treecreeper; Hawfinch; Spanish Sparrow; European Eagle-Owl; and European Scops-Owl.
The icing on the cake, and the reason to visit Bulgaria rather than other destinations in eastern Europe, are additional special birds unique to the eastern Mediterranean, plus species from the Middle East and Asia Minor that only occur in Europe down in this far-flung corner. Levantine Shearwater; Great White and Dalmatian pelicans; Pygmy Cormorant; Ruddy Shelduck; Ferruginous Pochard; Levant Sparrowhawk; Long-legged Buzzard; Imperial Eagle; Red-footed Falcon; Chukar; Syrian Woodpecker; Rosy Starling; Rock Nuthatch; Sombre Tit; Masked Shrike; Pied and Isabelline wheatears; Eastern Orphean, Eastern Bonelli's, Paddyfield, Eastern Olivaceous, and Olive-tree warblers; Semi-collared Flycatcher; and Black-headed Bunting. A strategic position on the edge of eastern Europe makes Bulgaria important for birds migrating to and from central Asia, and our spring visit could produce exciting, unexpected migrants "popping up out of the blue." This is simply one of the richest European bird faunas to be found in a short, unusual, and welcoming destination.
Bulgaria is a fascinating country with clear cultural influences as much from the East into central Asia and Asia Minor as from the West and Europe. It has a very long, rich, and turbulent history, being central to many ancient empires and battles over several thousand years. Since the collapse of communism, Bulgaria has emerged from being an almost unknown and mysterious region governed from the USSR into a bright, friendly, and welcoming country keen to "westernize" and develop tourism further. Still very rural, traditional farming practices from eras gone by are commonplace here, but good roads, transportation, and acceptable hotels (all with private bathroom facilities and serving ample meals) ensure a comfortable stay. I am delighted that I'll be co-leading with Milko Dimitrov againâ??a very experienced local birder who was a great success on my scouting trip. Like all our European tours, the birding is great and the tour comfortableâ??made more pleasurable and memorable for our flexible, relaxed approach without compromising on birds.
* Bulgaria
* May 7-20, 2005
* With Peter Roberts and Milko Dimitrov
* $3625 from Sofia
* Limit 12 (only 4 spaces remain available)
MEXICO: BARRANCA DEL COBRE THE "COPPER CANYON"
By Marshall Iliff
You arrived in Mexico for your first time, and after a dinner of "chicken en mole," went to bed with dreams of the exotic Mexican species you might encounter on your first birding venture outside the United States.
Los Mochis, Sinaloa, is a bustling city with plenty of human life, but were there any birds? You boarded the bus and drove a few city blocks before unloading in a verdant, but still urban, city park. So far, the only birds you had seen were Rock Pigeons and House Sparrows, and a single Turkey Vulture. However, the leaders strode forward confidently into the gates of the park, and you soon began to realize how many species were around. A dead snag above you held two Gila Woodpeckers, two Tropical Kingbirds, a Hooded Oriole, a Western Tanager, and a Broad-billed Hummingbird_all species you had seen in Arizona, but it was wonderful to get reacquainted with them in this small park. A scream nearby betrayed the presence of an adult Gray Hawk, and at almost the same instant the leaders cued the scope up on a Violet-crowned Hummingbird in a nearby tree. Two fighting Berylline Hummingbirds zipped by, finally stopping to give you scope views of your first Mexican specialty. They were followed by a Streak-backed Oriole, along with a Hooded Oriole for comparison. Suddenly both leaders cried, "Parrotlets! Right overhead!" You looked up just in time to see two green bullets streak overhead. This was one of your wanted species, and your first wild parrot ever (you had seen free-flying parrots in Miami and Brownsville). Unfortunately, these parrotlets did not want to be seen, and you followed their high-pitched cries until they were no longer audible.
Giving up on the parrotlets, you focused your glasses on a small buffy wren with a bold eyeline and a checkerboard pattern on its face. You knew this one from the books and its improbable name_Happy Wren! As if to confirm your identification, the wren launched forth into the jubilant refrain that gives it its name. Other birds were active in the low shrubs as well. An all gray gnatcatcher joined one with a prominent black cap, revealing a pair Black-capped Gnatcatchers. Verdins, Yellow Warblers, and White-collared Seedeaters (the leaders said this was a different subspecies, and potential split, from those you had seen in the Rio Grande Valley) were also busily feeding in the low morning sun. You had forgotten about the parrotlets until a bout of screeching called you to attention. Fortunately, this time these diminutive parrots wheeled and landed on an exposed snag, and began to preen one another, still chattering softly. The leaders had them in the scopes immediately, and you couldn't have asked for better views.
The next day would take you to the unique thorn forest ecosystem in the foothills. More Black-capped Gnatcatchers mewed from the dry brush, and four species of Myiarchus flycatchers tested your identification skills. Within an hour you had seen and heard Dusky-capped, Ash-throated, Brown Crested and, best of all, the subtle Nutting's Flycatcher, another of your hoped for lifers. Familiar birds such as Cactus Wren were contrasted with wild and unfamiliar ones, like the Black-throated Magpie-Jays (a Mexican endemic) that flew along a ridgetop with their long tails flowing ribbon-like behind them. Sputtering chatters from a thicket nearby set the leaders into motion again, and soon a Grayish Saltator was seen perched atop a thorny twig.
A mournful, hollow note upslope caused the leaders to immediately shift gears again. Russet-crowned Motmot, they said, and before long, it had been found sitting inside the thorn forest. Its long tail twitched occasionally like a pendulum, almost distracting your eye from the brilliant green and cinnamon colors of the head.
As the day warmed, raptors started to move, and you picked up Crested Caracara, Harris's Hawk, and a single Zone-tailed Hawk. The group drifted down towards the El Fuerte River, where the large cottonwoods would harbor different birds. Wood Ducks flew downstream, followed by Lesser Scaup. Suddenly an odd heron came winging by quite close to the shore. It seemed almost bittern-like; it was a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron. Intricate patterning on the neck was visible through binoculars even as it shied from the group and ducked up a side canal.
You had been paying little attention to the swallows overhead, but suddenly your leaders began shouting, "Martin! Martin! SINALOA MARTIN!" This bird looked very much like your Purple Martins at home, but was snowy white on the belly. You learned that this is a poorly known species that nests in only a few select locales in the mountains and foothills of western Mexico, and its wintering range is still unknown. It was even a life bird for one of your leaders!
The late morning did produce well in the shady cottonwoods_ Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Bell's and Cassin's vireos, Blue Grosbeak, and Black-throated Gray Warbler were all located. The highlights were a Blue Mockingbird that ducked in and out of view in a thicket, and a Sinaloa Wren.
In addition to the birds, you had been looking forward to riding the train across the Sierra Madre Occidental. You boarded the train the next morning and kept casual watch for birds while enjoying the incredible scenery. The brown thorn forest, occasionally punctuated by a brilliant lavender or yellow jacaranda tree, finally began to yield to ficus trees and lusher growth as you ascended the ridges. Several hours later, and after rounding an amazing bend and passing through a sequence of tunnels carved into the mountain, pine forest started to appear. You would spend the next several days birding in the higher country of pines and oaks, with a totally different set of birds. You saw Acorn Woodpeckers and White-striped Woodcreepers working the trunks; a Mountain Trogon along a cool, shaded hillside, perched for scope views; a Louisiana Waterthrush bobbing and dipping alongside an American Dipper on a mountain stream; Greater Pewees proclaiming "Jose Maria" from atop snags in the pine forest; and a pair of lovely Tufted Flycatchers was located beneath the waterfalls on a Cusarare hike.
Every flock of warblers held a slightly different assortment. One flock had Townsend's and Hermit warblers along with roving Mexican Chickadees; the next flock included several Olive Warblers and a Grace's Warbler; the next flock held no new species of warblers, but did have a Hepatic Tanager; the next flock had seven species of warblers including Slate-throated Redstart. Most flocks contained one or more Painted Redstarts, providing a splash of color among the pine needles.
The hike to Cusarare Falls was a wonderful chance to stretch your legs in the fresh mountain air. Despite an enormous amount of effort by your leaders, the crown jewel of this tour was not found. Apparently, Eared Quetzal, a majestic and elusive Mexican endemic, is seen on only about 50% of the trips.
The final day, a handful of new species were added to the already high bird list. All of them paled in comparison to your last lifer of the trip_Striped Sparrow. The leaders had miraculously spotted this bird atop a rock while driving through a grassy valley. This unique endemic sparrow is more the size of a towhee, and its intricate plumage is unforgettable.
The birds were not all this trip had to offer. Twice you went to overlooks with magnificent views of Copper Canyon and Urique Canyon, two of the deepest canyons in the world. The train ride continued through the forest and past small Mexican towns all the way to the Central Mexican Plateau, providing a remarkable transect of the Mexican bioregions, from thorn forest to foothills, to highland pine forest, and then (by bus) to Chihuahua City.
This trip can be combined with our March 11-18 Baja California tour.
* Mexico: Barranca del Cobre
* March 19-27, 2005
* with Brian Gibbons and Marshall Iliff
* $2325 from Los Mochis, Mexico (tour ends in Chihuahua City)
* Limit 14
EASTERN VENEZUELA
By Victor Emanuel
Our Eastern Venezuela tour includes lowland rainforest birding, but concentrates on the breathtakingly beautiful tepui highlands where 25 or more endemics may be seen. This trip also has been known as the Harpy Eagle trip because of the numerous Harpy nests we've visited. We've seen adult or young eagles on most of our eastern trips over the past dozen years, but chances are best when we have access to an active nest.
This is a great trip for large and showy birds with such prize species as Black Curassow, Bearded and White bellbirds, Capuchinbird, Guianan Cock-of-the-rock, Guianan Red-Cotinga, Pompadour Cotinga, Sharpbill, and Blue-backed Tanager. Our route, unlike that offered by others, crosses the entire Grand Savanna and includes a night at Santa Elaena de Uairén on the Brazilian border. It's a lovely drive, with dramatically close views of Cerro Roraima, one of the largest tepui mountains, and an opportunity to see several birds not otherwise possible, among them Red-shouldered Macaw, White-throated Kingbird, Tawny-headed Swallow, and sometimes the enigmatic Bearded Tachuri.
If it's tepui endemics and a stellar lineup of gorgeous birds you want, this trip is tops. Accommodations are only fair, but it is an easy tour, suitable for anyone in reasonably good physical condition.
Steve Hilty and David Ascanio are one of the best leadership teams I've ever known. These guys are terrific leaders and good friends. They complement each other perfectly and are great fun to travel with.
* Eastern Venezuela
* March 10-21, 2005
* with Steve Hilty and David Ascanio
* $2950 from Caracas
* Limit 14 (only 4 spaces remain available)
* Summer Eastern Venezuela
* June 20-29, 2005
* with David Ascanio
* $2675 from Caracas
* Limit 8
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VENT leaders David Ascanio and Steve Hilty — Photo: Peter English |
The Key to Success is…a Strong Supporting Cast
A Look at VENT's Less Known Leaders
By Barry Lyon
For 28 years Victor Emanuel Nature Tours has offered high quality natural history trips. It is a love of nature and a desire to share it with others that is the foundation of our business. Years of hard work and acute attention to customer service have earned us the reputation for being the best at what we do. We believe that a successful travel experience should be safe, comfortable, educational, and fun. To that end we have assembled a wonderful office staff and a world-class team of tour leaders. Our leaders combine extraordinary amounts of knowledge with the ability to communicate that knowledge to tour participants. Their love for their jobs provides for stimulating, enjoyable excursions to destinations all over the world. Many of our tour leaders are highly visible, spending large amounts of time on tours. They are popular and have developed loyal followings. When not in the field, their photographs and articles appear throughout our catalog and newsletters. Perhaps those of you reading this have a favorite VENT leader, or maybe several of them.
There is, however, a group of less known, but equally gifted leaders who are not as visible. They are members of a special group of people who work with VENT on a more limited basis. Many of them have other jobs and many of them live overseas, thereby having less exposure. You may see their names from time to time and wonder who they are, possibly feeling hesitant to travel with them for lack of familiarity. These leaders are essential to our operation. They possess intimate knowledge of otherwise poorly known areas, and make it possible for us to operate tours to destinations that would be otherwise inaccessible. If you travel with them, you can rest assured that they will bring to the table the same high standards that you have come to expect from VENT and its full-time leaders.
Several of these leaders who might not be as well known, but are clearly rising stars at VENT include:
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David Ascanio |
David Ascanioâ??Along with Steve Hilty, Kevin Zimmer, Andy Whittaker, and David Wolf, David is a critical element to our program in South America. Both young and enthusiastic, his career at VENT is clearly on the rise. His accomplishments are considerable and he is highly regarded by his co-workers and the people who travel with him. Both a birder and a naturalist, he has spent the last 19 years guiding birding tours throughout his native Venezuela, Trinidad and Tobago, Peru, and Ecuador. David is totally fluent in English and he combines superb birding skills with an astonishing command of bird vocalizations. He has published several manuscripts about Venezuelan birds, on which he is an authority. He is an excellent communicator, has a great sense of humor, and is tireless in helping others find birds and wildlife. He lives in Caracas with his wife, Bea, and their two sons.
Robert Gallardoâ??In the years ahead, VENT will be focusing on Honduras as an up-and-coming destination in the world of tropical birding, and Robert Gallardo is a central figure in that country. Robert grew up in California, and from an early age possessed a love of nature. He started collecting butterflies at age 11 and has continued that passion ever since. He attended Humboldt State University and, after graduating, went to Honduras as a Peace Corps Volunteer. During his service, he was taken in by the splendor of Neotropical birds. During the last 11 years he has seen 85% of Honduras's species and has recorded 11 new species for the country. He is certainly the world authority on the birds of Honduras and, in addition, possesses outstanding knowledge of Honduran orchids and butterflies. Robert resides in the charming little town of Copan Ruins in western Honduras with his wife Irma, where they own and operate a nature center.
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Hector Gomez |
Héctor Gómez de Silvaâ??Héctor is an emerging star in Mexico where he currently leads tours for VENT to western Mexico (Colima and Jalisco) and Oaxaca. He began birding at age eight in New York City. He published his first article about birds at age 15 while in Kenya, where he lived for six years. Since his return to his native Mexico in 1985, Héctor has acquired one of the highest Mexico bird lists, with over 930 species recorded. His travels have taken him through Central America, Kenya, and New Guinea. Aside from his ecological research, he holds a Ph.D. in ecology from the National University of Mexico, and has published more than 30 scientific articles about bird conservation, ecology, distribution, and natural history. He delights in sharing birds and nature with people who appreciate them.
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Paul Wood |
Paul Woodâ??I first met Paul several years ago when we co-led a tour to Belize and Guatemala. His easygoing manner, superb knowledge of natural history, and keen sense of humor made it easy for us to become fast friends. Although English by heritage, he has lived in Mexico for more than 20 years, specializing in bird research and conservation in the Mayan region. He holds a B.A. in Spanish from the University of Southampton in England and an MSc in environmental science and forest biology from the State University of New York at Syracuse. He has designed and led trips throughout Latin America, Western Europe, and parts of Africa. He is currently director of Rancho Santa Maria, a private bio-cultural reserve and lodge in the heart of the Yalahau wilderness region on the Yucatan Peninsula. Paul leads tours for VENT to the Yucatan and Belize.
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Susan Myers |
Susan Myersâ??Susan leads or co-leads several tours for VENT throughout Southeast Asia. She has been studying the fauna of Australia and Asia for over 20 years. After her university studies in biological sciences, she moved to Japan where she lived for four years, studying the language, culture, and natural history of that country. Her passion and enthusiasm for all aspects of natural history, especially birds, began in her early childhood. Susan has traveled extensively through most of southern and eastern Asia and led tour groups to many destinations in this region. Her deep affection for and appreciation of Asia and its wildlife, her special language skills, and her understanding of the different cultures of this region ensure extra dimensions to your tour.
It is our desire that as these stars shine brighter, your travel plans will take you to one of the many destinations where these less known VENT leaders dwell.
KAUAI AND HAWAII AND KAUAI SEABIRDS
By Bob SundstromOur 2004 Hawaii and Kauai tour began with a huge splash. On the first morning, a humpback whale leapt nearly entirely out of the water not far from our whale watch boat _not as fancy a jumper as the spinner dolphins we saw cartwheeling and pirouetting from the same boat_but far more impressive at 40 tons. The tour combined a bit of whale watching with excellent birding for Hawaiian endemics and seabirds, tropical weather, a relaxed pace, and wonderful amenities. We watched several courting pairs of Red-tailed Tropicbirds doing their aerial reverse somersaults, sometimes just a few meters off the edge of the Kilauea bluffs where we stood, as Red-footed Boobies streamed by carrying nesting material. Laysan Albatrosses glided by at eye level, while their huge, fluffy gray chicks sat in the shade; Wedge-tailed Shearwater pairs preened near their nest burrows. White-tailed Tropicbirds flew around the rim of Halemaumau Crater at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, in sharp contrast to the black and sulphur tones of the crater's volcanic activity.
Lots of endemic forest birds were seen during this two-island tour: we had great views of the Palila, Hawaii's yellow answer to the Pine Grosbeak; there were tangerine orange male Akepas and scarlet Iiwis with long, curved scarlet bills, as well as Elepaios, Anianiaus, Akekees, Apapanes, and a number of others with rhythmic Hawaiian names. On most tours we have had considerable success seeing the very endangered rare Akiapolaau (or Aki' for short), the honeycreeper that works trees like a woodpecker and is sometimes described as having a Swiss Army Knife bill, one of the most unique birds in the world. We had an incredible view of a singing Melodious Laughing-Thrush perched just over a forest trail_a species that normally skulks and sings from the deep cover of the leaves, and later scoped a Japanese Bush-Warbler as it belted out its amazingly loud notes_an even more notorious skulker than the laughing-thrush. Endangered Nenes (Hawaiian Geese) were close at hand, a Pueo (the Hawaiian version of Short-eared Owl) floated alongside deep Waimea Canyon, and endemic Hawaiian Hawks caught thermals on the side of Hualalai, the volcano that sits above Kona. We found the volcano goddess Pele's "tears" and "hair" in recent lava fields and cinder cones, and marveled at the creative processes of the earth so openly on display here. We took time to sample Kona coffee at the source, and the wonderful meals throughout the tour would be hard to match on any nature tour.
Our Kauai and Hawaii tour has been redesigned for 2005. It is now a bit shorter at nine days, but without any real loss of substance, and it begins on Kauai instead of on the Big Island. We have added an optional Kauai Seabirds Pre-trip to offer an opportunity to look for some very special seabirds of Hawaiian waters such as Newell's Shearwater and Dark-rumped Petrel. In this reconfigured tour, we have tried to take the best possible advantage of inter-island flight schedules, find lodging close to our best birding destinations and away from tourist density, and make the most of the experience of two dozen past Hawaii tours to offer a truly memorable two-island nature tour. The relaxed feel of our Kauai and Hawaii tour is enhanced by a maximum tour size of twelve.
Kauai and Hawaii are the chain's two most distinctive main islands, the newest and oldest geologically, and the two islands richest in natural attractions. Kauai, smaller and two million years older, feels lush and exotic, with lots of white sand beaches, slow winding rivers, and intense greenness_the Garden Isle. Hawaii, the aptly named Big Island, is distinguished by its massive and sometimes snow-capped volcanic peaks, and by a considerable diversity of habitats.
March is an especially good time to visit the islands: nesting seabirds are present in large numbers, other seabird species are moving offshore, and singing and courtship is underway among the native forest birds_all making for optimum birding conditions. You will gain special access to some of the finest remaining tropical forest habitats in the islands with one of the highest proportions of unique flora and fauna in the world. On the Big Island, with several nights at the Volcano House in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, we will explore its awesome volcanic landscapes, watch Black Noddies fluttering below black lava sea cliffs, and dine on the edge of Kilauea caldera as magma-heated steam rises from Halemaumau Crater. In March 2003, we were treated to one of the best molten lava shows ever on the tour, as we watched red lava bubble up from the earth at close enough range to feel its searing heat. Visit the Oceanic Tropics with VENT in March 2005 and you'll experience a Hawaii quite different from any you have ever imagined.
* Kauai and Hawaii
* March 19-27, 2005
* with Bob Sundstrom and Brennan Mulrooney
* $2795 from Lihue, Kauai (tour ends in Hilo)
* Limit 12
* Kauai Seabirds Pre-trip
* March 18-19, 2005
* with Bob Sundstrom and Brennan Mulrooney
* $600 from Lihue, Kauai
* Limit 12
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Iiwi — Photo: Mimi Hoppe Wolf |
ATTU ABOARD THE SPIRIT OF OCEANUS
September 7-25, 2006
By Victor Emanuel
For years I have dreamed of chartering a ship and spending a week at Attu during migration. We've finally managed to do it. VENT plans to charter the Spirit of Oceanus for a cruise from Anchorage to Siberia with an entire week spent at Attu during the peak of fall migration, September 7-25, 2006. For the first time, birders will be able to spend a week at Attu while enjoying the comforts of a lovely ship. Then we will continue on to Petropavlovsk and board our flight back to Anchorage. We have assembled a world-class group of leaders including Larry Balch, Pete Dunne, Steve Heinl, Marshall Iliff, Jeri Langham, Barry Lyon, Thede Tobish, David Wolf, Barry Zimmer, and myself.
Since over 1,000 birders have been to Attu and many more have wanted to go, we expect this cruise to sell out quickly. There are only 100 spaces available. Cabins begin at $9995 in double occupancy from Anchorage. We are offering a discount of $1000 to persons who sign up before January 15, 2005. To reserve a space, we are requiring a deposit of $2000 that is totally non-refundable unless your space can be filled by someone from the waiting list – in which case we will refund all of your deposit minus $100.
We were fortunate in finding a suitable ship. This has taken us several years of searching. We do not know if we will ever be able to do it again. I strongly urge you to reserve a spot on this trip.
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Spirit of Oceanus |