Bering Sea Expedition Jul 31—Aug 14, 2005
Posted by Dion Hobcroft
Dion Hobcroft
Dion Hobcroft has been working for VENT since 2001. He has led tours to Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, Bhutan, India, Southwest Pacific, Cambodia, Thailand, China, Jap...Related Trips
Sweeping across some of the most isolated and fascinating islands and oceanscape in North America, in unparalleled comfort aboard the Clipper Odyssey, our 2005 Bering Sea Cruise was an outstanding success. We encountered all of the Beringian endemics such as Aleutian Tern, Whiskered Auklet, Red-faced Cormorant, Red-legged Kittiwake, and Rock Sandpiper. We also had a brief encounter with the globally threatened, near mythical Short-tailed Albatross, and enjoyed unbelievable seabirding spectacles of masses of birds. We observed several rarities in ABA territory including Slaty-backed Gull, Common Ringed Plover, Red-necked Stint, Gray-tailed Tattler, and Black-backed Wagtail. Our travels in Kamchatka provided several more unusual species including superb studies of the giant Steller?s Sea-Eagle, the elusive Middendorff?s Grasshopper-Warbler, and rarer shorebirds like the Terek Sandpiper and Lesser Sand-Plover.
Beyond the fabulous birding we enjoyed marine mammal watching par excellence, superb encounters with killer, sperm, humpback, fin, and gray whales, and views of rarely encountered species like spotted seal and the giant Steller?s sea-lion. We had unique encounters with red and Arctic foxes, and shared some class time with giant Kamchatka brown bears on the Zhupanova River.
Stunning wildflowers were a highlight, particularly in the Aleutians, and especially abundant on Attu. Monkshood, fireweed, louseworts, and lilies lit up the tundra as we rambled through an immense landscape.
Our voyage commenced in Nome. Despite a late liftoff from Anchorage due to fog, we enjoyed an excellent afternoon around Safety Lagoon. Our first great highlights were stunning Long-tailed Jaegers hovering like kestrels, and superb flyover views of the scarce and localized Aleutian Tern. A pair of Hoary Redpolls sat out in the sun allowing superb scope views. There were Pacific and Common loons, and a rare Slaty-backed Gull was spotted by Victor.
We awoke at sea off St. Lawrence Island—a famous birding destination. We enjoyed an interesting morning at seldom visited Savoonga. Snow Buntings, Dunlins, Western Sandpipers, a few Vega Gulls, a Yellow Wagtail, and some fly-by King Eiders made it a worthwhile exploration. We were keen to get to Gambell, and our time here was especially memorable with our first appreciation of the sheer number of spectacular alcids. The cliffs were teeming with Crested, Least, and Parakeet auklets, and Tufted and Horned puffins. A lucky few had a Dovekie fly past. Investigating small gravel pits at the end of Troutmann Lake, I was lucky enough to find a juvenile Red-necked Stint and three Ringed Plovers amongst a smattering of juvenile sandpipers.
The following morning had us pulling up at St. Mathew Island, perhaps one of the most isolated and difficult islands to access in North America. It is also famous as the home of McKay?s Bunting, and we were soon enjoying some fabulous views of this rare little snowflake. A red fox trotted up to its lair in driftwood with a Crested Auklet in its jaws, and two large cubs emerged. Rock Sandpipers and stunning male Lapland Longspurs made for a sensational day. We finished up with a zodiac cruise around Hall Island; spectacular volcanic spires and sea caves alive with tens of thousands of birds make this an incredible spectacle. We enjoyed a great looking Harlequin Duck and some shy Steller?s sea-lions.
Continuing south, our next stop was the famous birding island of Saint Paul in the Pribilofs. Home to thousands of northern fur seals, we were keen to find some of this island sanctuary?s rarer denizens. This included our first Red-faced Cormorants and delightful Red-legged Kittiwakes. The cliffs at Ridge Wall allowed close-up comparisons of puffins, murres, and auklets. Salt Lagoon produced three rare Gray-tailed Tattlers. A Slaty-backed Gull and King Eiders in the harbor were more bonuses.
Cruising along on one engine due to a broken bearing, we were becoming concerned about making all of our landings. We decided to distract ourselves by seawatching. Fin whales, our first of many Black-footed and Laysan albatrosses, and Fork-tailed Storm-Petrels had many people out on deck. Those who were not soon came out when the public announcement of Mottled Petrels rang through the staterooms. This was also the day when a juvenile Short-tailed Albatross decided to casually fly past the lunch room. Unfortunately, only a few people were lucky enough to see this global rarity with its giant pink bubblegum bill.
We made it to Chaguluk Island which, like Hall, had an unbelievable biomass of seabirds—truly phenomenal. Equally phenomenal was our ability to get up-close and personal with several hundred Whiskered Auklets that skittered across the rip channels as we looked down on them from a stable deck. It was truly a delight to encounter this rare and restricted alcid. As if not to be forgotten, a Cassin?s Auklet was found on board the next morning. We examined this fascinating bird in the hand before releasing it.
Zodiac cruising around Little Tanaga revealed the scarce Aleutian Rock Sandpiper and Song Sparrows. We made close studies of Bald Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, and Black Oystercatcher before cruising to Kiska. Here we explored the lakes, beaches, and tundra, and enjoyed Eurasian Teal, another Gray-tailed Tattler, and some fascinating studies of Marbled and Kittlitz?s murrelets. There were abundant signs of the wartime occupation including a mini-submarine. One group was lucky enough to encounter a Steller?s sea-lion flailing around in the surf with a giant halibut.
Overnight, as we passed Buldir Island, more than 500 Leach?s Storm-Petrels landed on the ship, disoriented by the foggy conditions and the ship?s lights. A major rescue operation saw bathtubs filled with cold, wet storm-petrels that were released once they had dried off.
We sailed west to Attu, arriving in calm weather and foggy conditions. Our walk around Henderson Marsh and Smew Lake was fabulous. The wildflowers were spectacular. Flocks of Cackling Geese, incredible up-close studies of Ancient Murrelet, and great views of the resident Winter Wren and Aleutian Song Sparrow were amongst the highlights. We journeyed around to the Coast Guard station to pick up some souvenirs, and those who lingered enjoyed an adult male Black-backed Wagtail consorting with two juveniles.
For one of our tour members, Attu was especially significant. Al Currier had served two years in Attu during World War II, spending the first one in a tent and often shoveling out more than two yards of snow just to get out the door. Al was given a special tour by Coast Guard personnel. Visiting his old camp site and the remote war memorial obviously evoked special memories. We were privileged to have Al share this experience with us.
As we sailed west from Attu, we chummed the Stalemate Bank. This was a prolific seabirding site with stunning killer whales, humpback whales, numerous Mottled Petrels, Long-tailed Jaegers, and Laysan Albatross accompanying the ship at different times.
Smooth seas and a lot of hard work by the engine room crew had us back on track to make our landings. The Kamchatka coastline shone in beautiful light, highlighting the incredibly spectacular volcanic scenery. We cleared into Petropavlovsk Harbor, distracted by flocks of Black-headed Gulls, Carrion Crows, and Eurasian Tree Sparrows. We made a quick dash to explore the Stone Birch forests around the K9 Dog Kennels (sled dogs). The birding was a bit slow, but with persistence we found Arctic Warbler, Willow Tit, Eurasian Magpie, Olive-backed Pipit, Rustic Bunting, and a Rough-legged Hawk.
Our final full day was spent on the Zhupanova River exploring on foot and in zodiacs. The morning cruise was especially outstanding. We awoke to watch a giant Kamchatka brown bear strolling down the beach. Exploring the delta we had a superb adult Steller?s Sea-Eagle that sailed over the top of our zodiacs; we were soon studying more, including perched immatures that allowed close approach. We enjoyed great shorebirds and superb studies of Terek Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint, Common Sandpiper, Common Greenshank, and a flyover Black-tailed Godwit. Watching a younger bear catch a salmon right in front of us topped off a wonderful morning.
After lunch we explored the sandspit and dune scrub. More passerines were found including Sky Lark, Yellow-breasted Bunting, Oriental Greenfinch, and an exceptionally cooperative Middendorff?s Grasshopper-Warbler. On the sandspit we finished with a last hurrah when we found a small flock of beautifully plumaged Lesser Sand-Plovers. At the end of our voyage we had seen 112 species of birds and 17 mammals.
I would like to thank the Clipper staff for helping the VENT leaders in every way possible to make sure our clients enjoyed the voyage. I would also like to thank Victor and Barry for helping me so much, and ensuring we all had a special and outstanding voyage.