Barranca del Cobre
Posted by Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons was born and raised in Dallas, Texas. He took an interest in all things wild at a young age, but has specialized in birds since age 10. Brian graduated from S...Our 2006 Copper Canyon tour was the best for birds I have ever experienced?194 species. Day after day produced memorable sightings and dining pleasures. Our first morning was a great introduction to a few tropical birds of Western Mexico. We saw everything we could have hoped for there and had great looks at most of these birds. The Mexican Parrotlet had me worried, but it put on an appearance as we were on our way out. Purplish-backed Jay, Black-throated Magpie-Jay, Gray Hawk, Grayish Saltator, and others brightened the list of Parque Sinaloa birds.
The El Fuerte area had many highlights too. Unexpected birds were the order here; vagrant Northern Jacana, great looks at White-fronted Parrot, across the river views of Rufous-bellied Chachalaca, Sinaloa Wren, and several different Bare-throated Tiger-Herons made our two days in El Fuerte memorable. Black-vented Oriole was a nice addition too. Shrimp, guacamole, and grilled bass were trip highlights from the alimentary side of El Fuerte. The sun phenomena we noticed after seeing the west Mexican endemic White-naped Swifts right above town was exciting as well; it was called a halo. Parahelia are spots on either side of the sun (sun dogs). All of these occur at 22 degrees from the sun.
The first leg of the train was the most memorable for me?bridges, tunnels, and spectacular vistas. The amazing canyon scenery hosted at least a couple of Common Black-Hawks. Our next stop was Bahuichivo, for a couple of days at the Paraiso del Oso. These days were just as productive as our lowland birding. From the courtyard came hummingbird highlights with Berylline, Magnificent, and Rufous. The creek out back proved productive. White-striped Woodcreepers, Tufted Flycatchers, and a nesting pair of Mountain Pygmy-Owls were great. We all witnessed the tiny female Calliope Hummingbird bathing in the creek by landing in the middle of a pool and scooting across. Our trip to Cerro Gallegos was crowned by a pair of Military Macaws that flew past, below us, as we were about to enjoy our superb fajitas. Along the way we saw Crescent-chested Warbler, Mountain Trogon, Olive Warbler, White-eared Hummingbird, and Grace’s Warbler, to name a few.
Our next stop was Creel. This was my first time to stay at the Cabañas Cañon del Cobre, and I hope it will not be my last. Besides the great food, the hummingbird show was spectacular. The sharing lesson seemed to take better here with these feisty birds than with the ones at Paraiso del Oso. Blue-throateds ruled the roost, but many Magnificents and White-eareds were able to feed at will, often in threes and fours. The Calliope and Broad-tailed kept low profiles, and snuck in and out regularly.
The next morning would be more productive than I could have ever imagined. It started with the appearance of a nice pair of Evening Grosbeaks in the yard, the first time I had ever seen them in Mexico. I was resigned to not see the Eared Quetzal again. I had passed through its habitat at least nine times in the last decade. I wasn’t going to see it this time. That moment, after turning off the tape and still hearing the call, was magical. I couldn’t believe it. There, up the hill in front of us, was an Eared Quetzal squeal-chucking, still unseen. Soon enough he investigated the calls and came into view; how sweet. We all got good scope views which included the whiskers around its auriculars that give the bird its name. This was my lifer and the trip highlight for me, as some of you might have guessed.
Other birds peppered the morning to keep it from being a complete letdown after the quetzal. Crescent-chested Warbler, many singing Red-faced Warblers and Slate-throated Redstarts, and the surprise Striped Sparrow along the creek kept us sharp for the rest of the day. The next morning in Choguita, the Striped Sparrows were where they were supposed to be, and we had great scope views.