Day 17, September 24, 2006. Petro. Sep 07—24, 2006
Posted by Marshall Iliff
Marshall Iliff
Marshall Iliff, a lifelong nature lover, began birding at age 11 after attending a National Wildlife Federation Camp in the mountains of North Carolina. He attended VENT...Related Trips
(note that we crossed the International Dateline at 23:00 on September 21, 2006; hence the change in date)
Dawn met us this morning at the docks of Petropavlovsk ("Petro" for short). This was our disembarkation, but that process put no stop to the birding. Gulls were being identified by the gas lights of the harbor, and the first Carrion Crows were picked out well before sunrise. Best of all, a Middendorff's Grasshopper-Warbler apparently came on board overnight and was glimpsed by a lucky few headed back from the coffee table. Once it was light, many of us waited on deck while Russian customs cleared the ship. Seeing 20+ Slaty-backed Gulls and hundreds of "Kamchatka" Mew Gulls was a personal highlight as a "larophile," but other species like White Wagtail and Eurasian Tree Sparrow may have been more welcomed by some.
Once we officially entered Russia, we boarded tour buses for the airport. It took some hard bargaining, but Victor talked them into some birding stops rather than shopping stops. En route the volcanoes outside of town were magnificent in the bright sun and held a fresh coat of snow (late in coming this year). We couldn't resist a quick photo op. For birding, we selected a river en route to the airport that had a few short roads that we could walk into the trees and fields. Unfortunately, cool temps and foggy conditions made for incredibly slow birding. Olive-backed Pipits were flying overhead with regularity, but identifiable only by their high-pitched calls. Oriental Greenfinches flew overhead a few times too and, in addition to their calls, they could be identified by the extensive yellow in the mid-wing. One group managed to dig out Reed and Rustic buntings, but mostly the birding was a great exercise in frustration. We were rushed away just as it began to clear, and taken to a shopping mart for souvenirs. The shoppers found, among other things, a Nestle's chocolate bar marked "for men only," which allowed for much speculation as to why the fairer sex was barred from consuming this particular confection.
Some of us just could not be confined inside with Asian landbirds possible in the urban lots, and set about to find what we could. The small group I was with located an Arctic Warbler feeding in a hedge, and while we were relocating that bird a group of three Rustic Buntings dropped in front of us. A short ways further around the hedge, two of us spotted a Willow Tit. The highlight was to come just as it was time to leave. A hint of motion in the low shrubs betrayed a skulking bird whose identity was unclear until it turned slightly to face us: Siberian Rubythroat! This small Asian thrush was at least twice as striking as I had imagined it; its throat was simply brilliant and perfectly set off by the black and white facial stripes. Luckily I had the species on the iPod and was able to coax it high in the bush where it gave great views. After soaking up its brilliance for another few seconds, I dashed to alert the rest of the group. Alas, our guides were pressuring us-it was time to go and we stood the risk of delaying the plane if we didn't leave immediately. We loaded up quickly and rushed to the airport only to wait a solid two hours before boarding. Think of all the other Asian specialties we might have found among the row houses and barking sled dogs!
Our charter flight back was spacious and we were supplied with dinner, as well as bonus chips, M&M's, and peanuts. At least in the back of the plane, where I was sitting, all the giggling and laughter sounded like a high school trip. This was perhaps the most jovial collection of 100 people I have ever been around. It was a pleasure to be a part of such a successful and fun trip. I hope to see some of you again somewhere along the line.
Petropavlovsk species list, September 24, 2006 (23 species):
(note that we crossed the International Dateline at 23:00 on September 21, 2006; hence the change in date)
Harlequin Duck
Pacific Golden-Plover
Pelagic Cormorant
Rough-legged Hawk
Black-headed Gull
"Kamchatka" Mew Gull
Slaty-backed Gull
Rock Pigeon
Eurasian Magpie
Carrion Crow
Willow Tit
Arctic Warbler
Middendorff's Grasshopper-Warbler
Siberian Rubythroat
"Black-backed" White Wagtail
Olive-backed Pipit
American Pipit
Rustic Bunting
Reed Bunting
Hawfinch
Oriental Greenfinch
House Sparrow
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Other species tentatively identified included: Vega Herring Gull, Glaucous-winged Gull, and Great Spotted Woodpecker (heard only; probable).