Trinidad & Tobago Feb 23—Mar 04, 2007
Posted by David Ascanio
David Ascanio
David Ascanio, a Venezuelan birder and naturalist, has spent the last 22 years guiding birding tours throughout his native country, Trinidad and Tobago, Suriname, Guyana, n...Related Trips
On January 22 I was leading a VENT cruise in the Peruvian Amazon when I received a radio message from Lima. Bob Sundstrom, my VENT colleague, could not lead the Trinidad and Tobago tour next February, and they needed to know if I could take over his position. As I was listening to the message, I remembered my last time in Tobago. I believe it may have been more than ten years ago that I accompanied Richard ffrench, the author of A Guide to the Birds of Trinidad and Tobago, into this fascinating country.
Trinidad and Tobago comprises two islands: Tobago, with a population of about 50,000 people, and the much larger Trinidad, with over a million inhabitants. This small country offers one of the best introductions to birding in South America, with many Neotropical families represented, but not an overwhelming number of species.
We met at Piarco airport in Port of Spain to catch our flight to Tobago. After a drive to Cuffie River Nature Retreat, we started birding with scope views of White-tailed Nightjar, while a Common Potoo called some distance away. The following day we explored what is claimed to be the first protected forest in the western hemisphere (1765) in the Gilpin Trace. Here we had astonishing views of a male White-tailed Sabrewing (and a female nesting), White-throated Spadebill, Fuscous Flycatcher, and Stripe-breasted Spinetail. In the afternoon we visited a lek of Blue-backed Manakins, and obtained scope views of the Venezuelan Flycatcher and Great Black-Hawk.
The next day we started in the Hilton ponds, where we sighted the second record of Double-striped Thick-Knee for Tobago, and only the fifth record for the country.
Our day progressed with many waterbirds, including Sora and White-cheeked Pintail. We also scoped Mangrove Cuckoo and studied sandpipers in the wetlands. In the afternoon we drove to Grafton Hills where, after birding the trail, we enjoyed the bird feeders with loads of Bananaquits, Barred Antshrikes, and White-lined Tanagers, while a pair of Blue-crowned Motmots approached the "cheese table."
Our last day in Tobago began in Speyside, where we took a glass-bottomed boat to the even smaller Little Tobago. Here we walked the trail to the tropicbirds' nests and some of us went ahead towards the boobies' nests. In the glass-bottomed boat we enjoyed a green turtle, coral reef, and a good array of tropical fishes. In the afternoon we flew to Trinidad and drove into the Arima Mountains, to Asa Wright Nature Centre, where we spent the following four days.
Our first morning in Asa Wright was loaded with new species. From toucans to hummingbirds we spent the entire morning scoping new species for the trip. In the afternoon we headed down to the Oilbird site, where we enjoyed astonishing views of this species, although the Gray-throated Leaftosser took over the show, tossing leaves and searching for insects along the trail during our hike back to the centre.
The following day we drove across the Arima Mountains towards the Caribbean village of Blanchischeusse. At the ridge of the mountains we had astonishing views of the only purely endemic Trinidad bird species, the Trinidad Piping-Guan. What a moment! We enjoyed a male for several minutes, and even took great photos and videos of this wonderful species. Minutes later we tried another hard-to-find species, the Scaled Antpitta, and obtained decent views, although we did not get it in the scope. Other species included Streaked Xenops (scoped), Silvered Antbird, and nice views of Pale-breasted Spinetail.
On our third day in Trinidad we headed to the Arima livestock station, where we had astonishing views of Grassland Yellow-Finch. We also visited the Nariva Swamp, which offered great photo opportunities for Pinnated Bittern and Azure Gallinule. Other sightings included three species of kingfishers, as well as great views of Pearl Kite.
The surprises continued the next day, starting in the Aripo savannas and Wallerfield. Highlights included White-winged Becard, Red-bellied Macaws, and Bran-colored Flycatcher. We had lunch at the Arena Forest, followed by great views of the noisy White-bellied Antbird and the diminutive Sooty Grassquit.
After a rest back at the centre, in the evening we headed to the Wallerfield area for a night outing. We arrived early enough to see Masked Yellowthroat, and had dinner while enjoying Red-bellied Macaws, Sulphury Flycatchers, and Moriche Orioles in the Moriche stand. Later that night we saw Pauraque and enjoyed Spectacled Owl in the scope.
Our fifth day in Trinidad and last full day of the trip started on the verandah of Asa Wright Nature Centre. Before breakfast we headed to the Discovery Trail where we enjoyed spectacular views of White-bearded Manakins displaying at the lek. At midmorning we joined Mahase again for a drive to the rice fields, the sewage ponds, Waterloo Bay, and a grand finale in the Caroni Swamp. At Waterloo we observed seven Lesser Black-backed Gulls, a Large-billed Tern, and many sandpipers and Scarlet Ibises.
En route to the Caroni Swamp we enjoyed a Long-winged Harrier, and at the swamp we saw Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Clapper Rail, Rufous-necked Wood-Rail (a chorus of three individuals vocalizing!), and Green-throated Mango. Then the magic moment arrived as we watched dozens of Scarlet Ibises coming to roost. Our drive back was filled with views of a total eclipse of the moon.
It is always hard to choose the best experiences and the best bird species for a trip. I know some of you enjoyed digiscoping while others loved the motmots eating cheese in Tobago. I am sure we will remember the times when the bird feeders at Asa Wright Nature Centre were loaded with Purple Honeycreepers, or being awakened by the explosive song of the Rufous-vented Chachalaca in Tobago. It will be hard to beat our astonishing view of the Trinidad Piping-Guan in the Arima Mountains, although the always rewarding view of the Scarlet Ibis going to roost will be hard to forget.
Our tour recorded 245 species of birds, representing about 55% of all the birds of Trinidad and Tobago.