Malay Peninsula Jul 18—31, 2007
Posted by Susan Myers
Susan Myers
Susan Myers absolutely loves birding and traveling in Asia. As she says, "The combination of incredible and diverse wildlife, ancient and fascinating cultures, and the...Related Trips
The Malay Peninsula is cloaked in incredible Sundaic rainforests where the diversity of Asian birdlife reaches its zenith. Our tour covers a variety of habitats at different altitudes, thus allowing us to observe and enjoy a range of the ever-exciting birds and other wildlife of this lush region.
Malaysia is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in Southeast Asia. It's buoyant and wealthy, and has moved towards a pluralist culture based on a vibrant and interesting fusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous cultures and customs. The rainforests of the Sunda region—Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo, and Sumatra—are the oldest in the world. They are also the densest and most humid, meaning that birding here can be a real challenge! Despite this, the rewards make it all worthwhile, with some of the most beautiful and exotic birds found on earth—many of them seen well on our tour. Other highlights of any trip to Southeast Asia should be the fabulous food, varied and exotic cultures, terrific people, and general atmosphere; I think we sampled all of these aspects very well (you will note I am avoiding any mention of leeches). The remarkable diversity of the forests in this part of the world is simply astounding, and new discoveries await us every time we venture out. After many years of birding and exploration in Malaysia, I still find many new and wonderful discoveries on every visit. Even little things like beetle larvae or two-foot-long gliding lizards beguile me such that I find this one of the most exciting places on earth. And what a privilege for a Malaysian Rail-babbler or a Crested Partridge to let us glimpse him as he goes about his secretive business! These are only two of many exceptionally remarkable birds found here.
We began on the Ulu Gombak road, a forested hilly area near Kuala Lumpur, which provides a terrific introduction to the very exciting forest birding of Malaysia. We got off to an excellent start with some great birds and a confiding group of the now rare white-handed gibbons. Arriving in the coastal lowlands of Kuala Selangor Nature Park in the afternoon, we began birding immediately. This is an important remnant of mangrove and coastal forests on the west coast north of Kuala Lumpur and we had great views of Gray Heron, the amazing Stork-billed Kingfisher, Coppersmith Barbet, Mangrove Whistler, and Laced Woodpecker amongst others. We also enjoyed some close up looks of silvered leaf-monkeys with their beautiful, bright orange babies.
A rather long and windy road trip took us to the jetty for our boat trip up the Sungai Tembeling to the immense tract of undisturbed rainforest of Taman Negara—Malaysia's largest national park. The next few days saw us searching this spectacular lowland rainforest and its waterways for glimpses of the secretive and marvelous wildlife to be found here. An afternoon boat trip up the Tahan River was one of the high points of our trip. Not only did we enjoy the stunningly beautiful riparian rainforest, but we also had some great looks at a number of sought-after species including Black-and-red Broadbill, the endangered Straw-headed Bulbul, and the unusual and not altogether attractive Dusky Broadbill. This year the Jenet Muda trail was the most active area for the forest birds and we caught up with some of the scarcer forest dwellers such as Cinnamon-rumped Trogon, Striped Wren-Babbler, Orange-backed Woodpecker, and Maroon-breasted Philentoma. On the Swamp Loop we found the nomadic and scarce Crested Wood Partridge, as well as the incredibly cryptic Malaysian Peacock-Pheasant. More trudging along various trails in the area rewarded us with outstanding views of Malaysian Rail-babbler—a major trip highlight, as well as Red-naped Trogon, many woodpeckers including Buff-rumped, Buff-necked, and Great Slaty, and Blue-winged Pitta. The fruiting trees in the vicinity of the resort provided plenty of nonstop entertainment with lots of pigeons, hornbills, barbets, and bulbuls. Taman Negara can be pretty hard work, but always captivating!
Next we proceeded to the beautiful montane forests of Fraser's Hill where we came to grips with some of the high altitude species including the bizarre Fire-tufted Barbet, the elegant Red-headed Trogon, and the cheeky Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush. During the colonial era the British escaped from the heat of the lowlands to Fraser's Hill, and the atmosphere is still one of laid-back relaxation. The pace of life is much more sedate than down in the lowlands. The cooler climate provides a welcome contrast to steamy Taman Negara. Up here at 1,300 meters (4,265 feet) the avifauna differs markedly from that at Taman Negara. This is where we first encountered the bewildering but exciting mixed feeding flocks that so characterize the Asian region; mixed flocks of Golden Babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Mountain Fulvetta, and Bronzed Drongo are often accompanied by Black-and-crimson Oriole, Blue Nuthatch, and other goodies. In the gullies we found Lesser Shortwing and Pygmy Wren-Babbler. Walking along the roads we encountered simply fabulous Sultan Tits, Black Laughingthrushes, bizarre Red-bearded Bee-eaters, and a host of others.
I'd especially like to thank Dennis for his good company and very able assistance with logistics. Above all, thank you all for your cheerful and fun company—we certainly had a lot of fun and I am very much looking forward to traveling with you again in the not-too-distant future!