Peru Manu: Machu Picchu Extension Aug 28—Sep 02, 2007

Posted by Steve Hilty


Steve Hilty

Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and author of Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press, as well as the popular Birds of ...

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The combination of birds, scenery, and history is incomparable on this trip. The ruins, as always, remain impressionable, mysterious, and evocative—the more so perhaps because so little is known of their origins, and because of the breathtaking location. The ruins of Machu Picchu are indeed one of the world's great travel destinations, but they are, in themselves, just a brief chapter in a long and fascinating history of human occupation of the Urubamba river valley.

This short itinerary provides a dramatic contrast to the steamy lowlands and overwhelming biological diversity of the Manu Biosphere Reserve. This is a trip through high, often parched mountain valleys carved from powerful rushing rivers, a trip through high Andean grasslands and, most of all, a trip through history. This is, by all accounts, a region of colorful markets and of remarkable people dressed in distinctive but regionally varied clothing. Women carry babies, wrapped in bright blankets, on their backs. Men with broad sandal-clad feet, bent under heavy loads, move with a quick shuffling gait, all amidst majestic ruins, ancient terrace-rimmed valleys, and beside puna lakes shimmering beneath ultraviolet skies. Our route took us through traditional villages, past Usnea-draped basaltic cliffs, into mossy woodland inhabited by sprightly tanagers, and among deep, cold valleys where dawn comes slowly to restless hummingbirds chasing retreating shadows in endless pursuit of flowers.

Lago Huacarpay and the high puna grasslands of Abra Malaga provide an excellent cross section of high Andean birdlife, while the hotel grounds around the Machu Picchu Pueblo hotel offer an oasis of birds, flowers, and tranquility amidst a cacophony of hawkers of souvenirs, tourists, noise, and congestion in the little town of Aguas Calientes. The hotel grounds, mined to the hilt with orchids, flowering Heliconia, bird-of-paradise, Centropogon, and dozens of other flowering plants, offer hummingbirds, multicolored tanagers, and other small birds a diverse array of places to forage and seek shelter. Inca Wrens, first observed around the Machu Picchu ruins in 1965, were not formally described until 1985. Curiously, these wrens may not have been present during the years of intensive surveys and collecting following the discovery of Machu Picchu in the first half of the last century. Also, it seems that a trip into this valley below these famous ruins would not be complete without at least a glimpse of its most famous avian inhabitant, the Andean Cock-of-the-rock, whose image now adorns everything from t-shirts to luggage tags. And so, of course, our spectacular views of this bird were like icing on an already luscious cake.

This short trip into the land of the Incas provides a complete sensory experience—one to see, to smell, to touch, to feel, and to hear. Images of this distinctive land, its people, its music, and its wildlife, we suspect, will be with you for years to come.

And lastly, we wish Doris Valencia, our unfailing and immensely knowledgeable guide, our best wishes as she completes the final trimester of her pregnancy and will soon take on yet another new role, that of mother, in her young life. Throughout this and the previous two trips, she moved with grace and dignity, remained cheerful and alert, never flagged even during long days afield, provided us with an unending stream of stories about Inca and Quechua history and tradition, and, of course, spotted more than her share of birds for us.