South Africa: Kruger National Park Extension Oct 24—31, 2007
Posted by Geoff Lockwood
Geoff Lockwood
Geoff Lockwood's interest and involvement with birds dates back to his early years at school and forms part of a wider interest in the biodiversity of the Southern Afri...Related Trips
Kruger National Park is one of Africa's great wildlife refuges, with an amazing diversity of plants, insects, reptiles, amphibians, mammals, and, of course, birds. Surprises lurk around every corner and literally anything could happen.
This year we took an early drive out of Skukuza on our first morning in the park, enjoying the cool early morning air and the range of bushveld birds, many of them new for the trip. Crested and Natal francolins, Orange- (or Sulfur) breasted Bush-Shrikes, various hornbill species, cuckoos, and coucals all vied for our attention. Suddenly, a familiar shape crossed the road ahead; as we drew nearer, we were surrounded by a pack of at least 17 African wild dogs. Attractively-marked "Painted Wolves" were everywhere, and it was obvious that these critically endangered carnivores had just completed a successful hunt. A group of seven well-grown pups, one proudly carrying a section of the ribs of some animal, were excitedly milling around less than five yards away from our vehicle, giving us stunning, ultra-close views. They showed only mild curiosity at our arrival, however, and then ignored us completely. An adult arrived, and was immediately besieged by the pups, whose excited chitterlings prompted it to regurgitate chunks of hastily bolted down meat. More adults arrived, and elaborate greeting rituals between pack members had us entranced.
The activity and excitement attracted the attention of an immature Bateleur, which landed on a dead tree stump and began looking around for any scraps that may have been left by the dogs. Soon it was joined by a Hooded Vulture, who also surveyed the scene hopefully for anything that the dogs might have overlooked.
For the next 20 minutes we watched, spellbound at the antics of the pack, before the last of the dogs disappeared in the direction of the river. Then we headed back to camp for a well-deserved breakfast!
After breakfast we headed out along the Sabie River towards the camp of Lower Sabie. Reaching the bridge across the river, we turned onto it and began scanning up and downstream for anything interesting. Suddenly, Allen casually asked what the cormorant-like bird with a red bill could be, and there it was—a magnificent male African Finfoot slowly picking its way upstream. We had great views of this usually elusive species for several minutes until it disappeared behind a bend in the river. Moving out further onto the bridge, we stopped over another channel, and there was a female Finfoot feeding off the overhanging vegetation along the sides of the stream. Again, we were treated to cracking views before she too disappeared from view.
On the drive back to Johannesburg from Kruger Park, we skirted the edge of the Drakensberg (literally the Dragon Mountains) escarpment. The scenery was spectacular and the climb up out of the Lowveld took us through the Strydom Tunnel and Abel Erasmus Pass—site of one of South Africa's rarest breeding raptors, the Taita Falcon. This site has to be one of the best places in the world to see these striking small falcons, and this year we were treated to some of the best views ever!
We pulled off the road at the curio stall just above the nest site and asked the assembled women if the falcons were around. Several of the women walked down the road with us to where the nest was visible, but there was no sign of any activity. We carefully scanned all likely-looking ledges for the birds, but could not detect any sign of the adults.
As we waited, the first of several Cape Vultures passed low overhead, giving stunning flight views for those who had missed this species on our day up Sani Pass. Suddenly, a shrill piping call had us frantically scanning the cliff above, just in time to see the male falcon rocket off a ledge near the top of the cliff and stoop towards the nest carrying prey. Simultaneously, the female shot out of the nest hollow and flew towards her mate, attempting to take the prey from him in flight. The male resisted, however, and, after the aborted food pass, flew back to his perch at the top of the cliff where he proceeded to pluck what appeared to be a large swift—either an African Black Swift or an Alpine Swift. Through the scope we could see drifts of feathers whirling about in the air currents along the cliff face as the male continued to pluck the prey. Meanwhile, the female had perched out in full view and was busy preening, and we alternated between stunning scope views of the male at the top of the cliff and of the female as she enjoyed a break from brooding the young in the sunshine.
Taita Falcons must be amongst the most attractive members of the falcon family. They are built like miniature Peregrines, but are strikingly beautiful, with rich, rust-colored underparts. Their head patterns are particularly attractive, with the typical black-and-white falcon "hood" brightened by rust edgings to the cheeks and rust-orange spots on the nape—features clearly visible as we enjoyed these gorgeous birds at our leisure. Finally, as we were about to head back to the vehicle, the male launched himself from the top of the cliff and swooped down into the nest to feed the chicks, wrapping up what had been a magical half-hour with these special birds.