Northwest Argentina Nov 19—Dec 02, 2007
Posted by Steve Hilty
Steve Hilty
Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and the recently published Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press. Other credits inclu...Related Trips
Northwestern Argentina has a great diversity of habitats and birds and, even at high elevations in the puna, birds are numerous. Highlights included Greater Rhea; Ornate Tinamou; Red-legged Seriemas (in fantastic counter-calling display); eleven Andean Condors; a rare Red-faced Guan; Moreno's Ground-Dove; Hoy's Screech-Owl; a beautiful Chaco Owl; Alder Parrots; two male Wedge-tailed Hillstars (only recently found in Argentina); several male Slender-tailed Woodstars; a pair of Chaco Puffbirds; the three "long-billed" woodcreepers—Scimitar-billed, Great Rufous, and Red-billed Scythebill; Giant Antshrike; White-throated Antpitta; several scarce tyrannulets including Buff-banded and Sclater's; five species of elaenias; a pair of Rufous-throated Dippers; five species of yellow-finches; and a group of rare, high-elevation Red-backed Sierra-Finches. Finally, I cannot forget the wonderful family of four grisons playing on a road bank and crossing the road in a wiggling huddle, a rare sighting indeed.
As is often the case, a survey of memorable species and events produces a wide range of responses—on this tour, ranging from Giant Antshrikes and scythebills to our nights in the chaco with the sights and sounds of Little Nightjars (so close we could almost touch them) and Common Potoos, as well as the magnificent Chaco Owl. I also regard the display of three male Lyre-tailed Nightjars around a single female as something extremely special—something that, years ago, my wife and I once hiked over 20 miles to witness in Colombia—but the most unexpected drama may have been the pair of Red-legged Seriemas which responded so vigorously to Hector's brief playback.
Lago Pozuelos is virtually dry now and, because we were able to find almost all of the altiplano aquatic species at small remnant lagoons near Abra Pampa—albeit in far fewer numbers than once occurred at Pozuelos—we elected to visit a new area to the east of La Quiaca. This new area allowed us to see two rare Wedge-tailed Hillstars (a species scarce even in Bolivia), as well as a Citron-headed Yellow-Finch, a group of rare Red-backed Sierra-Finches, two Black-fronted Ground-Tyrants, and a Puna Canastero among others. This new area of altiplano also was one of the most beautiful I have seen in Argentina—truly inspiring.
I believe everyone was surprised, as is almost always the case, with the beauty of northwestern Argentina. Some may say it is like southern Arizona only more spectacular. The canyons, deserts, soaring cliffs eroded and sculptured into fluted patterns, immense braided riverbeds, colorful uptilted rock layers, mossy yungas forests, and golden puna grasslands spread beneath ultraviolet skies are not soon forgotten. This area contains, I believe, the most dramatic scenery on any tour that I guide. That we built a list of over 340 species of birds with only parts of two days spent inside forest is testament to the richness of this region. We hope that you come again to see the rest of Argentina and also tell your friends what a great place it is.