Mexico: Barranca del Cobre Oct 03—11, 2008
Posted by Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons was born and raised in Dallas, Texas. He took an interest in all things wild at a young age, but has specialized in birds since age 10. Brian graduated from S...Related Trips
We began our 2008 Copper Canyon tour in Parque Sinaloa, a serene oasis in the middle of bustling Los Mochis. Immediately we were greeted with our first tropical birds: Red-billed Pigeon, Mexican Parrotlet, Broad-billed and Violet-crowned hummingbirds, Grayish Saltator, and the amazing Black-throated Magpie-Jay. Mingling with these birds were some common North American migrants; Wilson's Warbler, Bell's Vireo, and Western Kingbird were all common in the park.
As the morning warmed up, we wrapped up our birding and headed to the 400-year-old town of El Fuerte, our base for the next two days. On our first afternoon, we birded along the El Fuerte River on the edge of town, finding some great birds. We had our first looks at Social Flycatcher, Thick-billed Kingbird, Happy Wren, Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Black-capped Gnatcatcher, and many North American migrants. An early start the next morning allowed us a great study of Elegant Quail, as a covey of nine birds loitered on the roadside before crossing in front of us.
This year we were able to access the Brand Ranch with great success, enjoying good looks at the ranch's star attraction, the Russet-crowned Motmot. Also making an appearance were Rufous-winged Sparrow, Nutting's Flycatcher, Rufous-backed Robin, and Streak-backed Oriole. In the afternoon a few of us made the short stroll over to the Posada del Hidalgo for some "hummingbirding." Among the Broad-billeds and Violet-crowns were a couple of Plain-capped Starthroats.
Before our departure the next morning, we birded the train station, which produced great looks at a male Painted Bunting and a Green-tailed Towhee. The train rolled in a respectable hour and fifteen minutes late. We boarded the famous Chihuahua al Pacifico to cool off after the hot lowlands, and were treated to spectacular canyon views from this engineering marvel.
After fabulous bridges and many tunnels, we arrived in Bahuichivo. A short while later we were ensconced in the Paraiso del Oso with its charming courtyard—and a Berylline Hummingbird. Our afternoon walk was very productive; Green Kingfisher, Painted Redstart, and Brown-backed Solitaire all came out for us. The next morning we headed out to the Cerro Gallegos overlook at the edge of Urique Canyon, and we added many mountain birds: Bridled Titmouse, Mexican Chickadee, Hermit Warbler, Hutton's Vireo, Yellow-eyed Junco, Tufted Flycatcher, and Arizona Woodpecker. Although the Mountain Trogon spot didn't hold a trogon (for the first time), we did find the rare Aztec Thrush, an excellent consolation. The overlook into Urique Canyon hosted a male Anna's Hummingbird and White-throated Swifts zipped overhead. Some 4,000 feet below we could see the tropical towns of Urique and Uapalina.
The next morning we hiked into Arroyo Ranchito (behind Paraiso del Oso). This beautiful little canyon always holds great birds. It also held a jewel scarab beetle, a beautiful lime-green and golden-striped beast fitfully named the glorious scarab. We enjoyed Painted Redstarts again and were surprised by a Northern Waterthrush. The real stars, however, were the Mountain Pygmy-Owl and a very stubborn White-striped Woodcreeper which Brennan finally coaxed out for scope views.
Once again we waited at the train station. Jim won the, "How late will it actually be?" pool, taking home eleven big ones with his guess of 1:42. Again, we boarded the train, for our final leg of rail travel.
The view from Divisadero was fantastic; Tararequa, Copper, and Urique canyons were all visible from the overlook. Since we continued via bus from here, we had a little extra time. White-eared, Anna's, Broad-tailed, and Magnificent hummingbirds were our reward. We arrived in Creel and took yet another bus to the charming Cabañas Cañon del Cobre lodge. A great kerosene-lamp dinner and crisp night in the mountain air followed.
We were off the next morning on a hunt for the marquee bird of this tour, the Eared Quetzal. Brennan and I were delighted to find a noisy family group early on during our hike. This bird easily won "Bird of the Trip" honors. We weren't done yet though. Gray Silky-flycatchers, American Dipper, and Mountain Trogon all made the list to further our success. Amazingly, we encountered another Eared Quetzal family group near the Cascada Cusarare. We enjoyed our lunch at these 100-foot falls and started our return. Again, the first family group of quetzals was very vocal and actively feeding a juvenile that sat patiently, without moving, for mom to bring a juicy caterpillar and a praying mantis. All the photographers were captivated by these birds. Finally I pulled myself away and we made a little tour of Creel, stopping to admire the beautiful but bird-less Lago Arareco. We visited a cave-house of some local Tarahumaras just outside of Creel and saw our first Striped Sparrows of the tour.
The next morning we enjoyed closer scope views of Striped Sparrow near Choguita, and I was stunned to hear an Eared Quetzal in a distant canyon. As we wound our way out of the mountains, another quetzal undulated across the road in its distinctive flight—truly astonishing luck with this bird. Finally we reached the level grasslands of the Central Mexican Plateau. After a brief tour of Mennonite country, we dined in Cuauhtémoc and headed for the Pancho Villa Museum which occupies the house he shared with one of his twenty-plus wives. After learning a little about the outlaw/revolutionary folk hero, we headed for Hotel Sicomoro to relax before our return north.