Mexico: Oaxaca Christmas Birds and Culture Dec 20—29, 2008
Posted by Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva began birding at age eight in New York City. He published his first article about birds at age 15 while in Kenya, where he lived for six...Related Trips
The city of Oaxaca is like a hub for birders in this birdiest state of Mexico. Different ecosystems are to be found to the north, east, west, and south of the city; as a consequence, hundreds of bird species, many of them endemic to Mexico (or even to just the state of Oaxaca), are readily encountered in short to moderate length day-trips from the city. The city is also one of the most culturally interesting parts of Mexico, and Christmas is one of the most culturally interesting times to visit. All of these ingredients make this, as a rule, an outstanding tour.
Our 2008 Christmas in Oaxaca tour was no exception, with a small group of amiable birders with different levels of interest and experience participating. On the first full day of our tour, we took in the spectacular ruins of Montealbán in the morning and, in the afternoon, Montealban's treasures that are held in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, as well as the ornate Santo Domingo church. In the process we bumped into many special birds, including—as an auspicious start to the trip—a small group of the rare endemic, Great Swallow-tailed Swift (the first time this species has ever been seen on our Oaxaca Christmas tour).
The next day began with a delightful bit of birding in a montane apple orchard at the village of Arroyo Guacamaya (including Steller's Jays of the "very different-looking" Oaxaca race) and ended with a demonstration and sale of alebrijes—fanciful carved animals. After that we went to the warmest and most tropical area visited during our tour, various locations on the road to Tehuantepec, and found several interesting species including Orange-breasted Bunting, Plain-capped Starthroat (the first one ever seen on our Oaxaca Christmas tour), and White-throated Magpie-Jay. That afternoon we returned to Oaxaca City to see the unique radish contest held every 23rd of December. During dinner that evening we watched a truly outstanding fireworks show straight over our heads.
On the 24th we visited several habitats near Teotitlán del Valle, observed a weaving demonstration, and spent some time shopping. The next day we visited the archaeological sites of Yagul and Mitla, and a nearby mezcal factory. The afternoon was devoted to the town of the black pottery, San Bartolo Coyotepec.
The day after Christmas, we visited the montane forest of La Cumbre where we decided to spend some time again the next day, seeing the charming Bumblebee Hummingbird on both days, and finally catching up with Mountain Trogon, not to mention a diversity of other birds. On the 27th and 28th we visited the lower slopes of the mountains north of Oaxaca City, seeing Ocellated Thrasher, and Slaty and Golden vireos. We even had a glimpse of Dwarf Vireo.
All of these ornithological and cultural wonders were accompanied every day by special meals of typical Oaxacan or Mexican cuisine, including mole sauce made of many ingredients (such as dark chocolate), fried grasshoppers, prickly pear and soursop sherbets, arrachera steak, and hot chocolate. So, do come to Oaxaca to see its birds and experience its cultural traditions and rich typical foods.