Colombia: Bogota, the Magdalena Valley and the Santa Marta Region May 28—Jun 12, 2009

Posted by Steve Hilty

Steve-hilty

Steve Hilty

Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and the recently published Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press. Other credits inclu...

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This trip provided a spectacular introduction to the birds of the Bogotá area, Magdalena Valley, and Santa Marta, Colombia. Our route was similar to the one used on our March–April trip and was designed to highlight the numerous endemic species of these regions. Highlights included species large and small, but were tilted in favor of those with colorful or unusual patterns. For most, including the guides, the five Black-fronted Wood-Quail that marched out in front of us—taking almost no notice of us, in fact—as they hustled off uphill and into a nearby garden, were absolutely incomparable. Other highlights included gorgeous views of White-tipped Quetzals; a Sickle-winged Guan with a still flightless chick; repeated views of White-whiskered Spinetails with their "got milk" moustaches; telescope views of a Striped Manakin; a stunning Golden-winged Sparrow; an extremely responsive Rosy Thrush-Tanager; an accommodating Rusty-breasted Antpitta that we spotted without playback or song; and a darling Black Inca in the cloud forest.

This year marks VENT's return to Colombia after a 23-year absence, and represents an almost complete reversal of fortunes for a country once mired in violence so widespread that travel within the interior of the country was not possible. But what a difference a decade or two can make. Colombia is now a country largely at peace with itself and yearning for normalcy. Did I see changes in our more than two-decade absence?  Of course. There are more people now, more traffic, more trucks, and perhaps more environmental pressures. Much of Colombia's Andes were formerly covered in a rich tapestry of forests, and today only a small portion of it remains. Untouched areas are confined to remote areas, steep stream valleys, and steep hillsides and ravines. Good habitat remains in several national parks, but these are often poorly protected. Private help has been forthcoming in the past decade, especially through ProAves, a Colombian conservation organization that has been, for ten years now, purchasing tiny parcels of forest that harbor remnant populations of endemics or rare species. We visited three of these sites—all with overnight lodging. In each case access is time consuming, requiring lengthy drives on roads that are rough.

The reserves include a lowland and two higher elevation sites and offer visitors a chance to stay on-site for three nights at each reserve with birding at our doorstep. We had some great days with stunningly good birding. Finding the much-vaunted endemics, however, often took considerable effort and patience.  By all accounts the greatest treasure trove of endemics occurs in the Santa Marta Mountains, and here, unlike in the Andes, many endemic species are relatively easy to see. Our days at El Dorado were spectacular with species ranging from fruiteaters and quetzals to Sickle-winged Guan with a still flightless chick, a covey of Black-fronted Wood-Quail at close range, and a host of endemics including the still to be described "Santa Marta" foliage-gleaner.

Colombia remains, at present, a trip for adventurous birders and naturalists who are willing to accept some rough spots (especially the roads) and realize this is more than a birding trip. It is a journey through a beautiful country with dynamic people, green mountains, cloud-filled valleys, and a multitude of birds. Logistics are complicated—ranging from boats, horses, four-wheel drive vehicles, and yes, even a motorcycle, to move our group and luggage. Some bus trips were long, but we must remember that Colombia has little history of ecotourism and lags behind neighboring countries in its offering of sites and facilities. But, it is learning quickly and the future here looks bright for ecotourism. In a few years we may look back and say…"You should have seen it back in the good old days"…of today.  Watch our web site and catalog for a new Colombia itinerary featuring the Central Andean cordillera that we are offering next year. Hope to see you soon.