Churchill Jun 10—16, 2009
Posted by Jeri Langham
Jeri Langham
Jeri M. Langham has a Ph.D. in plant ecology from Washington State University, and after 38 years as a professor of biological sciences at California State University ...Related Trips
I have led this tour 23 previous times, but as we landed at the Churchill Airport, I never imagined the weather that would confront us this year. Maybe "global warming," better called "climate change," played a role this year. Whatever the cause, Hudson Bay and the Churchill River were still frozen over and would remain that way while we were there. Deep snowdrifts made many of the usual roads impassable throughout our stay, and a hot first day followed by slightly above freezing weather began to melt snow so rapidly that it created bodies of water that looked like lakes in areas that are usually bare when I arrive each year. In fact, two days after we arrived, the flooding was so bad it overflowed a few of the roads that were open and made passage impossible. I have never before faced such challenges in finding the specialty birds that make this trip such a joy to lead. Migration was more than two weeks behind normal, causing us to miss a few species that had not arrived yet, but allowing us to find some that have usually gone through by the time I normally arrive.
On every one of my tours, I write a journal covering the locations we visit and some of the highlights of each day, and then mail it to the participants after I return home and have a chance to do some editing. In order to interest you in joining me next year, I will include here one entire day from the journal and some highlights from other days.
Day 2, June 11: Flight to Churchill – As our plane neared Churchill, I could see more snow than has ever greeted me. Almost immediately we started getting birds. I stopped for a Horned Lark and Ed spotted a White Wagtail that disappeared before any others could see it. At Akudlik Marsh, there were Long-tailed Ducks, one Hudsonian Godwit, Black Scoters, Arctic Terns, Pacific Loons, and much more. We then headed to check Bonnie Chartier's bird report board and slowly birded our way toward town. I could not believe the amount of snow, water, and the dozens and dozens of Lapland Longspurs and even more Snow Buntings. There were more of these than in all my previous 23 years combined. The huge puddle (more like a small lake) that was at the south end of town produced many shorebirds, including Stilt, White-rumped, and Semipalmated sandpipers, and Sanderlings. But the amazing scene was one created by the dozens of beautiful, breeding-plumaged Ruddy Turnstones. The mouth of the river was still frozen solid, but the weather was the warmest we have had since arriving in Manitoba on June 4th. The snow was rapidly melting and producing more water everywhere than I have seen before. We could not really access the Granary Ponds, but the action that is usually there was now in the huge water south of town. I introduced everyone to Gypsy's for lunch, and then we went back to Pat and Bob Penwarden's Tundra Inn to check in and get a short siesta.
At 2:30 we headed down Goose Creek Road to the Weir. I had been told there were still some Red Phalaropes and did not want to miss them…it was wonderful to see them since they have usually passed through when I arrive here. We had superb looks at Pacific Loons in breeding plumage, all three scoter species, and two merganser species. There were fewer Arctic Terns and Bonaparte's Gulls than usual…most have just not arrived yet. We then drove down to the Pump Plant at the end of Hydro Road. It was great to see three barren land caribou in the road walking towards us. Since Bruce Di Labio's group was at the other end, the male and two females that were walking toward us eventually just plunged into the cold water and swam away from us to the trees. The view from the levee at the Pump Plant was nice here, but we found nothing new. Once again, we had to plow through water in the road, this time in order to get to the large Marina observation tower. It was wonderful to climb up in warm weather and not have biting wind. Never have I seen so much water and so much snow. Our visit was rewarded with looks at our first Little Gull, but it did make us a little late for dinner at Gypsy's. After doing the checklist, some of the participants joined me for the optional evening adventure; I wanted to get back to the Weir area again. Fording the river over the road paid off with wonderful looks at many birds seen earlier, a scoped Red or Taiga Fox Sparrow, and even a river otter that was sliding over one of the big slabs of ice. Two distant Little Gulls were seen, and everyone learned what to look for to ID them when they are swimming with Bonaparte's Gulls. A beautiful sunset brought to a close a wonderful first day at Churchill.
On Launch Road the following morning, as soon as I mentioned that we had entered American Golden-Plover habitat, Jennifer spotted one and we enjoyed watching a pair near the Twin Golf Balls. Next was a great-looking red fox still in some of its winter white coat, and a mini lecture on Krummholz formation. The breeding-plumaged Black-bellied Plover was just where I was told to look for it. A magnificent male Willow Ptarmigan was next to perform for us, and we were also treated to a female with incredible camouflage, designed to prevent predators from seeing her while incubating eggs. The male responded beautifully and allowed us to get great photos plus a video by Jennifer. Four barren land caribou provided additional entertainment as they paraded by. No sooner were we savoring that experience than a Parasitic Jaeger came flying by and joined two other individuals over the mound-filled, open tundra. We watched them perch on little mounds that may later be chosen for their nest. We would enjoy many male Willow Ptarmigans this morning as we drove all the way to the Churchill Northern Studies Center at the end of Launch Road. Coming back, Jennifer noticed the Ithaca, a Greek ship that went aground in a storm and could not be pulled out. Because it started to rain, I decided our time would be best spent visiting the Bilenduck's bird feeders and watching them from our bus. We could not have had a better visit. Best were the two Harris's Sparrows that gave quite a show, but we enjoyed the beautiful male Pine Grosbeaks even more. White-throated and White-crowned sparrows were there, but I preferred the beauty of the Red or Taiga Fox Sparrows.
On our last full day I decided to get to Smith's Longspur habitat, and our plan was to have me walk the open tundra while Jennifer walked along the road with her scope and Ed drove the bus. The first large field had a bird that did not respond, but we did see five Black-bellied Plovers and a few American Golden-Plovers. Near the end of the next big tundra field, I was successful. The singing male sat on the top of a short spruce until everyone had seen it well. I could not have been happier since this was a lifer for all, and in an area that I have not worked over for nearly a decade. We sort of floated back to dinner with that success.
After a well-deserved siesta on our last afternoon, we headed back out to the pond south of town and then checked out the road to Landing Lake where we had seen many redpolls two days ago. We had excellent views of Hoary Redpolls and also had our THIRD sighting of barren land caribou. Most trips do not even get one sighting, and this lucky group had THREE!
Every tour has its special moments, and this one had many. Please join me in 2010 for another great adventure that can be combined with the Southern Manitoba tour.