Peru, Manu: Part II Aug 11—20, 2009
Posted by Steve Hilty
Steve Hilty
Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and the recently published Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press. Other credits inclu...Related Trips
During our 2009 Peru: Manu Part II tour, we experienced as close to perfect weather as is possible here, with fairly cool temperatures almost throughout the trip. Our good fortune with both weather and wildlife sightings was the result of slightly lower temperatures following on the heels of a "southern" weather front that passed through just before our arrival. The weather was so pleasant that even Vanessa, a hand-raised tapir that was released into the forest a few years ago, made one of her rare appearances at the lodge just before dawn one morning—doubtless looking for handouts (an apple, please?). A year ago she appeared with a baby. Now completely self-sufficient, she only occasionally wanders into the lodge area, doubtless retaining early memories of food and shelter.
If I could summarize this trip in a single word it probably would be "antbirds," specifically the ones we observed at two large army ant swarms on our last day. There were other highlights to be sure: over 60 macaws on the exposed river bank of clay; a beautiful morning on a catamaran at Cocha Blanco (oxbow lake); a Rufous-fronted Antthrush walking briskly across the shady forest floor; trumpeters under a huge strangler fig (Ficus sp.); guans, toucans, fruit-crows, and other frugivores in the canopy of this same strangler fig; scope views of a rare Gray-bellied Hawk and White-browed Hawk; Curl-crested Araçaries at point-blank range from a canopy platform; a huge mixed species flock that remained nearly stationary for an hour; daily sightings of troops of monkeys; barbets, manakins, and tanagers in the small melastome tree immediately in front of the dining hall; antbirds, antwrens, puffbirds, barbets, and softtails behind our cabins; a Green-and-rufous Kingfisher and a rare dwarf caiman at a forest pool; butterflies on riverbanks; stocking feet on polished floors; predawn candlelight breakfasts; damp foggy mornings on quiet rivers; and much more. But above all, perhaps, it was the drama played out at two army ant swarms that was most memorable.
It happened on the last day. A soft chirring sound and then two dark forms, blurs really, flashed across the forest trail. We waited and watched, and trained a scope on a spot where someone had spotted a movement. Army ants were streaming across the trail at this point. Birds appeared, then abruptly disappeared, wary at first but gradually accepting our presence, even as we moved closer. Twenty minutes later, our patience rewarded, I focused the telescope on two handsome Black-spotted Bare-eyes resting just inches above the ant swarm. Everyone took turns viewing these remarkable birds, as well as a pair of Sooty Antbirds and a second pair of bare-eyes nearby. As we watched, a troop of howler monkeys began to call, a great swelling noise like the howl of an Arctic storm. Moments later this nearby troop was answered by another group farther away—a classic convergence of iconic Neotropical images.
Remarkably, an hour later we encountered an even larger army ant swarm with many more obligate army ant-following birds in attendance. Among them were at least a half-dozen White-chinned Woodcreepers, a pair of Scale-backed Antbirds, and a pair of White-throated Antbirds. Encounters of this kind seldom occur as often as one would like, but when they do occur, the reward is a glimpse of one of the classic biological dramas played out all across lowland Neotropical forests. We were particularly fortunate this year, not only with antbirds, but also with many other species.
The Manu region provides a true Amazonian wilderness experience, an all-encompassing journey that includes rainforest trails, rainforest canopy platforms, quiet lakes, rivers, clay river banks, mineral licks, patches of bamboo, clearings, gardens, and a region that remains, to this day, a complete ecosystem—one in which all of the large birds and animals and top predators are still present. Yet, all of this is possible with a level of comfort almost unimaginable just a decade or two ago: catamarans for languid mornings on oxbow lakes, canopy platforms, and sleek longboats with shaded roofs, comfortable seats, and outboard power. We need bring only our curiosity and an open mind to enjoy this greatest of all wildernesses.