Mexico: Barranca del Cobre Oct 10—18, 2009
Posted by Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons grew up in suburban Dallas where he began exploring the wild world in local creeks and parks. Chasing butterflies and any animal that was unfortunate eno...Related Trips
We began our 2009 Copper Canyon tour in the hot coastal town of Los Mochis. A Gray Hawk put in an appearance before we passed through the gate of Parque Sinaloa, where we got our first glimpse of the avifauna of Northwest Mexico. A mix of familiar northern and tropical species greeted us. Red-billed Pigeon, Black-throated Magpie-Jay, Streak-backed Oriole, Ruddy Ground-Dove, and Great Kiskadee were all easy to find. Our main quarry for the park was Mexican Parrotlet. We eventually found a nice flock of more than 30 birds, but keeping them in the scope for more than a few seconds was challenging as they climbed around, eating their favorite fruits.
Our time in the park passed quickly, and we had to head inland to El Fuerte, a town in its fifth century of existence. After lunch, a town tour revealed the charming streets of this old colonial city. Rio El Fuerte still flowed past the west side of town. Social Flycatchers greeted us upon our arrival at the river. Green Kingfisher, Vermilion Flycatcher, Mangrove Swallow, and the afternoon prize—a juvenile Bare-throated Tiger-Heron—were all seen along the river. We meandered upstream and found another tiger-heron, even closer this time. Happy and Sinaloa wrens both sang from the brush, but neither would venture out for a look at us. Finally, the late afternoon showers pushed us back to the hotel after a great day.
Tropical Storm Patricia had settled off the tip of Baja and rained on us from dawn till dusk on our second day. However, we still managed a few sightings like Elegant Quail and Sinaloa Martin, both Mexican endemics. Russet-crowned Motmot was smarter than we were and stayed hidden during our efforts. The next day dawned with a sprinkle and I thought, here we go again. Much to my delight, it never rained on us during our full day of birding around the El Fuerte river valley. We were given this opportunity since the train was delayed a day by the rain, and we made good on it. Happy and Sinaloa wrens came out. A Crane Hawk clambered around an old snag. Rufous-bellied Chachalaca sat up, as did Common Black-Hawk. The motmot, which barely peeped the other day, came in calling and allowed scope views. There were warblers, vireos, flycatchers, sparrows, buntings, and swallows all over the place. The next morning, one day late, we were waiting for the train at the El Fuerte station. A male Yellow Grosbeak made for a great show during our wait.
As we started up the flank of the Sierra Madre Occidental, the scenic train ride up to Bahuichivo, always exceptional, was even more so; the rain-swollen streams made the waterfalls the most remarkable I have seen on this journey. We were shorted a day by Patricia, so we made an evening run out to Cerro Gallegos after a quick trip through Cerocahui and its Jesuit mission church. A Black-headed Siskin sat atop an oak near the rim. The thunderstorms beyond Urique Canyon were beautifully lit by the setting sun. In a tropical setting, thousands of feet below, the towns of Guapalina and Urique carried on without noticing us.
The crisp morning, our first and last at Paraiso del Oso, was for the White-striped Woodcreeper hunt, and we headed out for Arroyo Ranchito. Brown-backed Solitaires were singing early and we quickly heard a distant woodcreeper. It would take a while, but eventually the quarry came in and we had good looks at a cooperative bird, another Mexican endemic. Buff-breasted and Tufted flycatchers, Painted Redstart, and Mexican Jays livened up our wait for the woodcreeper. The courtyard at Paraiso del Oso was prime for watching the hummingbirds visiting the feeders. White-eared, Berylline, Black-chinned, Anna's, and Magnificent hummers all came in for the sweet stuff. Red-naped Sapsucker and Arizona Woodpeckers also gave us great views in the yard. Unfortunately, we needed to get back on schedule and we had to leave Paraiso del Oso, so we were off to the Bahuichivo station.
This leg of the train voyage was scenic too, as we passed through high valleys with more Tarahumara farms tucked into the hills. Finally, in Creel, we took a van to the Cabanas Canon del Cobre. On our first evening, we took an exploratory hike down the Cascada Cusarare trail and were rewarded with excellent views of members of an Eared Quetzal family. After a great dinner of chili rellenos we headed off to our kerosene lamp-lighted rooms.
The next morning we headed down the same trail to Cascada Cusarare. The waterfall was as spectacular as I have ever seen it, still gushing with tropical rains. That afternoon we crossed paths with the quetzal family again, including a brief scope view of the male. These amazing views captured "bird of the trip" honors for this great Mexican bird. Along the stream, American Dippers sang and disputed territory. Mexican Chickadee, Steller's Jay, and Hairy Woodpecker were also seen along the trail. In the evening we had yet another encounter with the quetzal family.
Our first stop the next morning was Lago Arareco. A great mixed flock was passing by right in front of us, at eye level: Grace's Warbler, Pygmy and White-breasted nuthatches, Mexican Chickadee, kinglets, creepers, and the star—a beautiful male Olive Warbler. Yellow-eyed Juncos and Canyon Wrens were cruising the boulders below us. Choguita is the magic Striped Sparrow spot, and they were there for our final Mexican endemic. In short order we were out on the plains of Chihuahua watching Chihuahuan Ravens on our way to Casa Carolina for lunch.
At the Pancho Villa Museum, our final destination for the tour, we learned about the life of the famous bandit, patriot, and hero.