Mexico: Oaxaca Christmas Birds and Culture Dec 20—29, 2009
Posted by Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva began birding at age eight in New York City. He published his first article about birds at age 15 while in Kenya, where he lived for six...Related Trips
The city of Oaxaca is like a hub for birders in this birdiest state of Mexico. Different ecosystems are to be found to the north, east, west, and south of the city, and, as a consequence, hundreds of bird species, many of them endemic to Mexico (or even just the state of Oaxaca), are readily encountered in short to moderate-length day-trips from the city. The city is also one of the most culturally interesting parts of Mexico, and Christmas is one of the most culturally interesting times to visit. All of these ingredients make this, as a rule, an outstanding tour.
Our 2009 Oaxaca Christmas tour was no exception, with a very small group of amiable birders with different levels of interest and experience participating. On the first full day of the tour we went to the warmest and most tropical area on our itinerary, since the weather was extremely cold and cloudy in the immediate surroundings of Oaxaca City. We birded various locations on the road to Tehuantepec, and, as usual, found several interesting species that we don't have a chance to find throughout the rest of the tour, including Orange-breasted Bunting, Streak-backed Oriole, Green-fronted Hummingbird, Russet-crowned Motmot, Yellow-winged Cacique, and White-throated Magpie-Jay. The following day we visited the Tule tree and the birds and archaeological site of Yagul, the Mitla archaeological site, and a nearby mezcal factory. In the afternoon we went to see Monte Albán's treasures that are held in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, as well as the ornate Santo Domingo church.
The next day started with a delightful bit of birding in a montane apple orchard at the village of Arroyo Guacamaya (including Steller's Jays of the "very different-looking" Oaxaca race) and ended downtown where the unique radish contest held every 23rd of December took place. On the 24th we visited the montane forest of La Cumbre, where we decided to spend some time again on the 25th and 28th, which gave us the opportunity to bump into Gray-barred Wrens, an Aztec Thrush, and a male Rose-throated Becard, to mention just a few of the highland specialties we saw.
The following morning we took in the spectacular ruins of Monte Albán and the special Oaxacan brunch buffet close to our hotel. On the mornings of both the 26th and 28th we visited the lower slopes of the mountains north of Oaxaca City, seeing Ocellated Thrasher, Dwarf Vireo, and, unexpectedly, a Red-headed Tanager. On the afternoon of the 26th we visited the village where alebrijes (fanciful carved animals) are made, and then the village of the black pottery, San Bartolo Coyotepec.
Most of the 24th was spent in several habitats near Teotitlán del Valle. And all those ornithological and cultural wonders were accompanied every day by special meals of typical Oaxacan or Mexican cuisine, including mole sauce made of many ingredients (such as dark chocolate), fried grasshoppers, strips of prickly pear stems, arrachera steak, and hot chocolate.
So, do come to Oaxaca to see its birds and experience its cultural traditions and rich typical foods.