Northeastern Brazil Jan 09—23, 2010
Posted by Andrew Whittaker
Andrew Whittaker
Andrew Whittaker's passion for birding and natural history started at the early age of seven in the UK. Since 1982 Andy has worked and studied birds worldwide in C...Related Trips
Once again, our Northeast Brazil tour (now in two parts) served up its usual share of exciting birding including many of the least-known and most endangered species of birds in South America. Exploring bird-rich habitats such as the stark arid caatinga (sertão), Atlantic forests, and spectacular forested Chapadas produced over 429 species and a whopping 124 regional and/or Brazilian endemics!
We began with a mouthwatering lunch in the beach resort of Fortaleza, and then ascended to the cooler forested slopes of the Serra do Baturité. Forested trails treated us to a fearless pair of rarely seen Spot-winged Wood-Quail, which gave us a show at arm's-length that nobody will ever forget! Other highlights included close encounters with Ochraceous Piculet, Gould's Toucanet, Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant, "Ceará" Gnateater, Band-tailed Manakin, Rufous-breasted Leaftosser, Red-cowled Cardinal, and some breathtaking Red-necked Tanagers.
On to Chapada do Araripe National Forest, which produced an array of special birds including fantastic close studies of the unique Great Xenops, dazzling White-naped Jays, and a well-behaved White-browed Antpitta. However, it was the male Araripe Manakin, a stunning study in crimson, black, and white, that really stole the show. Described to science in 1999, it remains known from only a couple of locations. We have been fortunate to find this gem on every tour to this region since its discovery.
Farther south into Pernambuco, we penetrated the most arid part of the caatinga, where columnar cacti, thorn-scrub, and terrestrial bromeliads dominate the landscape. Here, as usual, birds were abundant; Caatinga Parakeet, Red-legged Seriema, Spot-backed Puffbird, Caatinga Cacholote, Red-shouldered Spinetail, Stripe-backed Antbird, White Monjita, Greater and Lesser wagtail-tyrants, multiple Xenopsaris, Campo Oriole, and White-throated Seedeater were just a few of the many special birds seen well in this region. At Petrolina we were rewarded by fantastic views of the rarely seen Stripe-backed Bittern at our marsh site, as well as a surprise Striped Owl flushed during the day.
Our stay at Jeremoabo produced a very cooperative Pygmy Nightjar and Pectoral Antwren, and an oh-so-close Little Wood-Rail. However, foremost in this region was the magnificent Lear's Macaw, one of the world's rarest and most spectacular parrots. We were all spellbound by these enigmatic birds, as three inquisitive birds landed at close range in a nearby tree to check us out.
The weather changed on us as we headed to Alagoas, as a cold front brought wet weather and made conditions on the dirt roads difficult. Despite this frustration we had some excellent birding over the next few days. With our time in the main Murici Forest Reserve reduced to only a few hours by the weather, we still managed spectacular scope studies of Jandaya Parakeets (flaming orange, yellow, and green), "Reichenow's" Blue-headed Parrot, Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Scalloped Antbird, Black-cheeked Gnateater, Tawny Piculet, Blue-backed Manakin, Green-backed Becard, and incredibly stunning Seven-colored Tanagers.
Our beach resort at Tamandaré was, as always, a delight; even its local white-tufted-ear marmosets were there to welcome us. Despite more rain, the forest reserves produced some magical views of many endangered endemics and more: the spectacular Brazilian Tanager, great close studies of a stunning male Long-tailed Woodnymph, Pinto's Spinetail, Chestnut-backed Antshrike, Red-headed Manakin, Smoky-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, Forbes's Blackbird, and good looks at a large red-tailed boa in a tree.
All too soon, it was time to fly to Salvador, where we said our good-byes to Grace, while the rest of us embarked on Part II, Avian Wonders of Bahia, where a whole new group of endemics awaited.
The badlands of Chapada de Diamantina National Park, with its spectacular eroded mesas, sheer cliffs, and fascinating endemic plant communities, could not have provided a more spectacular starting point. Topping the bird list were our point-blank views of a stunning male Hooded Visorbearer, which is surely among the most attractive of all hummingbirds! Other highlights included close studies of a confiding pair of Sincora Antwrens (described in 2007), low Biscutate Swifts, White-eared Puffbird, Rufous-winged Antshrike, Velvety Black-Tyrant, Collared Crescentchest, Pale-throated Serra-Finch, Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch, and Scarlet-throated Tanager, as well as close studies of the odd rock cavy, a new mammal for the trip.
Jequié produced great studies of Blue-winged Macaw, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Spotted Piculet, Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Stripe-backed Antbird, Silvery-cheeked Antshrike, Narrow-billed Antwren, Gray-headed Spinetail, Black-billed Scythebill, Great Xenops, and an amazingly confiding pair of endemic Slender Antbirds.
The Atlantic Forest at Boa Nova was, as usual, alive with birds, among them Yellow-throated Woodpecker, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Striated Softtail, Bahia Spinetail, Tufted Antshrike, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Rio de Janeiro Antbird, Pin-tailed Manakin, and Gilt-edged Tanager. Unfortunately, rain in the higher forest forced us to leave frustratingly early. However, we were still rewarded with an amazingly well-behaved Brazilian Pygmy-Owl, Golden-capped Parakeets, Frilled Coquette, and the rarely seen Buff-throated Purpletuft.
A stop in the Itabuna area once again paid off with scope views for all of the odd Pink-legged Graveteiro, an acrobatic member of the Furnariidae just described to science in 1996.
We finished at a lovely, family-run beach resort south of Ilheus. Our trip to nearby Eco Park was as superb and birdy as ever. Here, we were treated to spectacular studies of superb male Eastern Striped Manakin (on the lek), White-bellied Tanager, Red-billed Scythebill (rare nominate form), Bahia and Band-tailed antwrens, and Scaled Antbird. Another highlight in this lovely forest reserve was the well-made canopy walkway that led through the rich bromeliad gardens. Sadly, we did not see maned sloth this year.
All in all, a great group of birders shared many marvelous birding and cultural experiences, good times, and much good food (maybe too much) while racking up a large number of rare Brazilian endemics! I eagerly await my next trip to this wonderful corner of Brazil.