Mongolia May 29—Jun 16, 2010
Posted by Susan Myers
Susan Myers
Susan Myers absolutely loves birding and traveling in Asia. As she says, "The combination of incredible and diverse wildlife, ancient and fascinating cultures, and the...Related Trips
Mongolia is a country that sparks the imagination. The exploits of Chinggis (Genghis) Khan are renowned throughout the world, yet his homeland remains something of a mystery to this day. Our image of Mongolia is one of wide open spaces, rolling grasslands, harsh deserts, horsemen, and nomadic herders. This was VENT's first tour to Mongolia, and while we probably all had these pictures in our minds' eyes, none of us really knew what to expect. Our first port of call was, of course, the capital, Ulaanbaatar, a surprisingly sophisticated and bustling, albeit small, city surrounded by low rolling hills and crowned by a huge, blue sky. Although we used Ulaanbaatar as a staging post for our forays out into the Mongolian wilderness, we didn't have a lot of time to explore.
Our first destination was north of Ulaanbaatar, in the grasslands and larch forests of Terelj. Although only 55 kilometers from the capital (making it a very popular area for day-trippers), the area feels remote and wild. Even though the wildlife was somewhat shy and retiring, the forests were delightful. We enjoyed some excellent birds in the hill forests and in the riparian areas, the standout being the superb and much anticipated, not to mention cute, Azure Tit. Here we also had our first experience of living in a ger (yurt), which was much more comfortable than we expected. I, along with a few others, made the mistake of asking for a fire in the central furnace. It soon made me realize how effective these simple structures are at sheltering one from the weather. We sweltered!
Our next destination was the town of Bayankhongor—a town I have never heard of, in the middle of nowhere, and our stepping-stone for the legendary Gobi Desert. I can't put it any better than Lonely Planet: when you go to the Gobi, prepare to have your illusions shattered. The Gobi is certainly not the monotonous wasteland I was expecting. It's a varied, complex ecosystem of grasslands, sand dunes, glacial canyons, stunted saxaul forest, rugged mountains, and shallow saltwater lakes. After a short, comfortable flight we began our circuit, driving to the huge lake of Boon Tsagan Nuur, swinging south to another lake, Orog Nuur, and then further south (near the border with China) to the Gurvan Saikhan National Park, before heading eastward to Dalanzadgad, and returning to Ulaanbaatar after two weeks in the desert. The journey unfolded before us in an ever-changing tapestry of stunning images, always framed by a blue sky of startling intensity. As we traveled, at times far from the tourist trail, we encountered affable nomads with their herds of camels and other livestock, not to mention their remarkably friendly dogs that often came to greet us. We slept in tents and gers under brilliant, clear, star-studded skies, and enjoyed tasty and varied meals prepared by our wonderful cook—no mean feat out in the middle of nowhere! Our journey was frequently punctuated by stops for birds and other wildlife, photography, and simply for moments to savor this amazing place.
After an exceptionally harsh winter in which more than seven million head of livestock were lost, we found the wildlife to be scarcer than we were anticipating. No doubt, much of the wildlife also suffered as a result of the conditions prior to our visit. The combination of a summer drought followed by heavy snow and low winter temperatures is not unknown in Mongolia, where this phenomenon even has a name—a "zud." Apparently, this is the worst that has been experienced in many years, with temperatures dropping more than 40 degrees Celsius below zero. Reuters quoted one local woman as saying, "I have seen many zuds that have caused the loss of numerous animals, but I have never seen a zud as bad as this one." We had our work cut out for us! Nevertheless, we enjoyed some fabulous birding and natural history. There were numerous highlights, including a sensational Wallcreeper that repaid our patience by putting on a superb show; sightings of majestic Siberian ibex surveying their kingdom; large and varied congregations of waterbirds at the picturesque lakes; a plethora of small and exotic critters amongst the rocks and stubble; gorgeous Oriental Plovers in breeding plumage; and many beautiful and magnificent raptors. We searched through those Black-headed Gulls until we were cross-eyed, but just as the ax was about to fall, we found our quarry—the rare and poorly-known Relict Gull. Later, we had quite the adventure with Saxaul Sparrows, before finding them to be happily cooperative in a most unexpected place!
After a short respite in Ulaanbaatar, it was on to greener pastures in the meadows and wetlands to the north. It was delightful to see trees again! Our adventurous driver transported us through improbably, and alternately, rocky and muddy tracks to search for waders and waterfowl. Our special treat here was finding pairs of gorgeous White-naped Cranes with chicks! It was thrilling to find a group of imposing Argali, with their impressive racks, grazing on the rocky hillsides. To finish off we made the remarkable trek over barely discernable roads (I think the word "road" dignifies these tracks way beyond what they deserve!) to the little-known Jalman Meadows in the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area. Our ger camp was located in a wide green meadow surrounded by rolling, forested hills. The birding was again a little slow, but we enjoyed this lovely camp with its marvelous scenery and, best of all, finished off our birding with an outstanding encounter with another trip favorite, the imposing Black Woodpecker.
Our first tour of Mongolia was a qualified success. We experienced so much—outstanding scenery, magnificent wildlife, lovely people, exotic ger camps, and a real sense of adventure. The food was outstanding, much to everyone's surprise, and we have our excellent cook to thank for that! The accommodation in the ger camps was unfailingly comfortable, clean, and well-appointed. The roads were rough and the journeys long, but our drivers and vehicle were up to the task. The birding and naturalizing were not easy, but it was rewarding. Simply put, Mongolia is an amazing and unforgettable place.
My sincere thanks to Manaljav, Jan, Gaana, Baira, Shaggur, and Dzola for all their help. And many thanks to you all for your excellent company! I hope to see you again on another VENT tour!