Bhutan Apr 09—May 04, 2010
Posted by Dion Hobcroft
Dion Hobcroft
Dion Hobcroft has been working for VENT since 2001. He has led many tours to Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, Bhutan, India, Southwest Pacific, Cambodia, Thailand, China...Related Trips
Our late spring tour to this jewel-like Himalayan kingdom surpassed everyone's expectations. It was a total delight to be back in the land of the peaceful thunder dragon for my eighth consecutive tour. Acquiring our desired left-hand seats on the plane, the great peaks of the eastern Himalayas put on a fine display (Dave's finger getting a shutter button workout as we passed Everest). It is not often that westerners applaud when a plane touches down. Such was the case this year as the pilot negotiated the rather complex landing. We had arrived in Bhutan at perhaps the most idyllic airport in the world. A quick foray to the Drukgyel Dzong turned up a superb Black-tailed Crake and photographic opportunities of several migrant Pin-tailed Snipe, while the Dzong turned on a perched Eurasian Hobby.
The following morning we were up early and the birding kicked-off well with several Kalij Pheasants wing-whirring in display, followed by a flock of wonderful Blood Pheasants. Up at the pass, Himalayan Monal was in good form, and we enjoyed multiple repeat views of the stunningly beautiful male. Plenty of good birds followed, including a tantalizing Golden Bush-Robin, Fire-tailed Sunbird, and an outstanding Spotted Laughingthrush. In the afternoon we searched for Ibisbill, and some determined scanning turned up this most enigmatic shorebird that specializes on soft-bodied invertebrates in glacial rivers.
From the capital, Thimphu, we explored the delightful environs of Cheri Monastery. The rhododendrons were superb and we were soon enjoying glittering gems like Mrs. Gould's Sunbird and the delightful Rufous-fronted Tit. We also enjoyed scope views of goral, one of the curious hoofed mammals of Asia, and Snow Pigeons gave some excellent flight views. Our standout bird today was a cracking male Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, or was it the Brown Dipper feeding chicks? A visit to the Takin Breeding Centre revealed the national mammal, and we even got the opportunity to stroke a Takin calf—a first for me! After some shopping we continued on our journey across Bhutan.
A leisurely birding stroll through hemlock and fir forests bedazzled by rhododendrons made for a lovely morning at Dochu La. Darjeeling Woodpecker and the scarce Rusty-flanked Treecreeper were amongst a host of new birds. In the afternoon we were a world away exploring the Po Chu valley for migrants. We had superb views of a sensational Pallas's Fish-Eagle. Blyth's Pipit—definitely a bird for those who enjoy little brown jobs—was a good discovery (only my second Bhutan sighting). Before dinner we went out for a bit of a spot-lighting session and had exceptional views of Gray Nightjar perched.
Tashitang is a glorious location. Heavily jungled hillsides meet a roaring Himalayan river. The birding is always exciting here, and we saw some great birds with Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush always a standout. It is hard not to be impressed when you have Small and Rufous-bellied niltavas lining up next to each other, along with dashing woodpeckers like the Greater and Lesser yellownapes. Our afternoon visit to the inner sanctum of the Punakha Dzong was a humbling experience.
The next morning we enjoyed the birds coming in to the lights at the Zangtho Pelri Hotel with a Blyth's Reed-Warbler quite a good sighting. A mid-morning stop placed the rare Yellow-rumped Honeyguide in the scope amongst a myriad of other great birds including a beautiful Asian Emerald Cuckoo. We followed up on a report of a pair of over-summering Black-necked Cranes in Phobjikha Valley. After a bit of patient scanning, the word was out, and we enjoyed some good scope views of this unexpected bonus. We headed for the hills and found ourselves camping at Sengor.
Some trepidation often greets this first night in the tents, but everyone comes through with flying colors. Again, this is always exciting birding, and our first morning turned up a perched male Himalayan Monal followed by a flashy Fire-tailed Myzornis, with more stunning views of Fire-tailed Sunbird and Spotted Laughingthrush. Not a bad start, with other great sightings of Himalayan Vulture, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Hume's Bush-Warbler, and Mrs. Gould's
Sunbird.
We drove through to Trongsa, had a lovely hot shower, and got prepared for jungle birding in Tingtibi. Birding along the way turned up Little Forktail and Spotted Forktail, plus sightings of the rare Spot-winged Starling and scarce Gray-bellied Cuckoo. We set up camp in the Orange Orchard and enjoyed the goldilocks climate of this altitude. The camp was alive with birds and we couldn't help but be distracted in siesta hours by our resident Rufous Woodpecker and Rufous-necked Laughingthrush. The birding was scintillating, with point-blank views of Great Hornbill, nesting Long-tailed Broadbill, Indian White-hooded Babbler, and both Greater and the rare Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill in one memorable mixed flock, nest building Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Rusty-cheeked and White-browed scimitar-babblers, and the amazing Sultan Tit—not to mention the troops of golden langurs.
We again entered the upland birding habitats between Jakar and Sengor and had some absolutely magical encounters. Three stunning male Satyr Tragopans on the road were a dream. Great and Brown parrotbills plus the amazing Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler and a pair of Pygmy Blue Flycatchers gave sensational views of scarce birds.
As we descended to Yongcola, the bird biomass took off exponentially and we had some electrifying birding. The Cutia display was extraordinary. Ward's and Red-headed trogons made vital appearances; Scarlet Finch was excellent; and localized babblers like Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler, Yellow-throated and Golden-breasted fulvettas, and Scaly Laughingthrush focused crisply for the group. Scarce birds like Sikkim Wedge-billed Babbler, Broad-billed Warbler, and Black-throated Parrotbill shimmered through the bamboo. We enjoyed an excellent night drive with wonderful views of both particolored and Hodgson's giant flying squirrel, and experienced a minor miracle when we flushed a Mountain Scops-Owl that perched right next to the bus. The sleepless leader continued his exploration and hit the jackpot when after forty minutes of playback he lured a Hodgson's Frogmouth right over his head. This was definitely a birthday present, as it confirmed a heard record from two years previously of this enigmatic rarity.
It would be hard to top this, but we kept batting away. We wound our way through the far-east of the kingdom. Plenty of new birds came for the trip list with easily our best views of the celebrated Rufous-necked Hornbill; Pin-tailed Pigeon; colorful Asian Fairy Bluebird and Black-eared Shrike-Babbler; secretive Red-faced Liocichla and Blue-winged Laughingthrush delighted us in dense bamboo; and the rare Dark-rumped Swift was sighted during an amazing electrical storm. A stint of border birding in Samdrup Jonkhar racked up some rarities in the form of a Black Stork on migration and a surprise Striated Heron.
Finally we must depart fairy tale land. We made our way to Gauhati in the Indian state of Assam. A smooth journey was punctuated with birding stops highlighted by Lesser Adjutant, an amazing Watercock male in breeding condition, Common Hawk-Cuckoo in the scope, and a Pheasant-tailed Jacana.
It should also be mentioned that on our first full day in Delhi we gave it our best shot and finished with 108 species for the day! Amongst our many memorable sightings were Comb Duck, Red-naped Ibis, Painted Stork, Sarus Crane, Indian Thick-knee, Spotted Redshank in breeding plumage, Wire-tailed Swallow, Sulphur-bellied Warbler, Bluethroat, Indian Golden Oriole, Citrine Wagtail, and White-tailed Stonechat. Altogether on this tour we recorded 432 species of birds.
I would like to thank the participants for a thoroughly delightful Bhutanese birding adventure!