Mexico: Barranca del Cobre Oct 09—17, 2010
Posted by Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons
Brian Gibbons grew up in suburban Dallas where he began exploring the wild world in local creeks and parks. Chasing butterflies and any animal that was unfortunate eno...Related Trips
The sweltering lowlands of Sinaloa, the Sierra Madre Occidental, and the Central Mexican Plateau all hosted a great variety of birds that we endeavored to see on our tour of Copper Canyon. Starting in Parque Sinaloa in a bustling Los Mochis, we found our first western Mexican endemics. The raucous Black-throated Magpie-Jay, squeaky Mexican Parrotlets, Broad-billed and Violet-crowned hummingbirds, Plain-capped Starthroat, and a furtive but Happy Wren were some of the great birds we saw on our first morning. After our visit to the park, we moved up the El Fuerte river valley to the town of El Fuerte. The town's newly refurbished facades and paint were still fresh—this after being designated a Puebla Magica (magical town) and receiving federal funds to give this historic town a facelift. We took a brief tour of the town and moved on to the river where birds were common. Ospreys cruised up and down stream, vigilant for that daydreaming fish. Also along the river we watched Great Kiskadees, Social Flycatchers, and Green and Belted kingfishers.
Cruising up and down the road near El Fuerte eventually produced a few views of the handsome endemic, Elegant Quail. A little ways into the thorn forest we enticed a Russet-crowned Motmot to come out for excellent views. A Sinaloa Wren also came in for a look. In an oxbow near Ocolome we saw a couple of Northern Jacanas trotting on the lilies. An agitated group of songbirds was mobbing a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl. A couple of male Rose-throated Becards actively disputed their territorial boundaries. We heard Rufous-bellied Chachalacas a few times, but we never could track them down. Lucy's Warblers were easy to find with a bit of pishing. Four species of orioles brightened the list from the El Fuerte area: Streak-backed, Orchard, Hooded, and Black-vented. On our final morning in the lowlands we watched the river one last time; a pair of Common Black-Hawks was doing the same. The trees around the train station hosted a variety of birds with the Rufous-backed Robin being the most exciting.
The scenery is spectacular during the first leg of the train journey up the Sierra Madre Occidental aboard the Chihuahua al Pacifico. Soaring cliffs, mountain streams, exceptional vistas, canyons, a waterfall, amazing engineering, and the thorn forest ceding to oaks and pines are to be expected. Finally we reached the cooler climes of the mountains at Bahuichivo. Paraiso del Oso was superb. We found the Berylline Hummingbird in the courtyard as expected.
The next day we traveled out to Cerro Gallegos, birding along the way, finding a few flocks and a distant Military Macaw. We were rewarded with a spectacular view of Urique Canyon, a delicious fajita lunch, and a White-eared Hummingbird. Some of the birds in the various flocks we found were Brown-backed Solitaire, Crescent-chested Warbler, Red-faced Warbler, Bridled Titmouse, Mexican Chickadee, Tufted Flycatcher, Yellow-eyed Junco, and Hermit Warbler. We had some luck with the owls, a few folks saw the Whiskered Screech-Owl, and everybody saw the mountain form of the Northern Pygmy-Owl.
On our second evening at the Paraiso del Oso we were treated to a rumbling thunderstorm. The next morning a weedy corn field out back was alive with birds; Lincoln's Sparrows were everywhere, and Lesser Goldfinches, an out of place Marsh Wren, Clay-colored Sparrow, Lazuli Bunting, and a very obliging Buff-breasted Flycatcher were all there.
The Bahuichivo station wasn't as birdy as the El Fuerte station, but we enjoyed our lunch and were amazed by the almost timely arrival of our train! Higher still we traveled into Tarahumara country and the pine forest around Creel. The Copper Canyon Lodge is set in a charming little valley with amazing birds right outside. Great atmosphere and wonderful food are also easy to find. The stream passing in front of the lodge hosted a pair of American Dippers, and the male was often singing. We heard our main quarry for this stop on our first evening, but we wouldn't have scope views until the morning. We found them—an entire family of five Eared Quetzals—the bird of the trip. We enjoyed scope views of the female, male, and juvenile. After the family group moved upstream, we continued downstream, to Cascada Cusarare. This beautiful waterfall is where we enjoyed our sack lunch and the warm sun or cool shade, whichever way you were inclined. The return hikers enjoyed a juvenile Mountain Trogon that was hanging out with a juvenile Eared Quetzal.
During our final birding morning, we enjoyed exceptional views of the highland Mexican endemic, Striped Sparrow, just outside of the lodge gate. A quick stop at scenic Lago Arareco added a couple of species. As we cruised out of the mountains, we dropped into the central Mexican plateau and its grasslands, grain fields, and apple orchards. Casa Carolina hosted us for a wonderful lunch, and in Chihuahua we learned of Pancho Villa's exploits on the battlefield and in love. Our final sighting was a late evening Peregrine zipping past Chihuahua.