Mexico: Oaxaca Christmas Birds and Culture Dec 20—29, 2010
Posted by Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva
Héctor Gómez de Silva began birding at age eight in New York City. He published his first article about birds at age 15 while in Kenya, where he lived for six...Related Trips
The city of Oaxaca (pronounced "Wa-Haca") is like a hub for birders in this birdiest state of Mexico. Different ecosystems are to be found to the north, east, west, and south of the city. Consequently, hundreds of bird species, many of them endemic to Mexico (or even to just a small part of the country), are readily encountered in short to moderate length day-trips from the city. The city is also one of the most culturally interesting parts of Mexico, and Christmas is one of the most culturally interesting times to visit. And the food is varied and tasty. All of these ingredients make this, as a rule, an outstanding tour.
Our 2010 Christmas in Oaxaca tour was no exception, with a small group of amiable birders with different levels of interest and experience participating. One increasingly common phenomenon of winter in Oaxaca that often surprises visitors from the north is that we get a few quite cold mornings (in the high 40s or 50s).
On the first full day of our tour we started with a one-hour drive followed by a delightful bit of birding in a montane apple orchard at the village of Arroyo Guacamaya, where birds seen included Steller's Jays of the "very different-looking" Oaxaca race. Our drive ended in the village of San Antonio Arrazola where fanciful carved animals called alebrijes (pronounced "allay-breehess") are made.
The following day of birding was in the several habitats near Teotitlán del Valle, and cultural highlights were the rug-weavers of Teotitlán del Valle itself and the famous Tule Tree. The next morning was one of the birdiest of the tour, with our visit to the cactus grove and archaeological site of Yagul, followed by cultural stops at Mitla archaeological site, a nearby mezcal factory, and downtown Oaxaca where the unique radish contest is held every 23rd of December.
On the 24th we visited the montane forest of La Cumbre, which we decided to visit again on the morning of the 28th, the highlights perhaps being the male Mountain Trogon in the scope, the Red and Crescent-chested warblers, Slate-throated Redstart, and the comparatively unattractive but rare Pine Flycatcher. The following morning we took in the spectacular ruins of Monte Albán and the special Oaxacan brunch buffet close to our hotel. In the afternoon we went to see Monte Albán's treasures that are held in the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca (which has windows overlooking the birdy Santo Domingo botanical garden), as well as the ornate Santo Domingo church.
On the morning of the 26th we visited the lower slopes of the mountains north of Oaxaca City, and in the afternoon we had free time, during which most participants explored the various shops and markets of downtown Oaxaca. The next day we went to the warmest and most tropical area visited during the tour. We birded various locations on the road to Tehuantepec, and as usual found several interesting species that we don't have a chance to find closer to Oaxaca City, including Orange-breasted Bunting, Streak-backed Oriole, Russet-crowned Motmot, and Yellow-winged Cacique.
All of these ornithological and cultural wonders were accompanied every day by special meals of typical Oaxacan or Mexican cuisine, such as mole sauce made of many ingredients (including dark chocolate), fried grasshoppers, strips of prickly pear stems, arrachera steak, and hot chocolate (which is a Mexican invention, actually). So, do come to Oaxaca to enjoy its birds, cultural traditions, and rich typical food.